Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys, just letting everyone know that I am putting some gear up for sale, wont be long and the team will be doing the new mods to the car and hopefully smash some records, we have set our goal to break both records.... 8.47 by RH9 fastest street tired gtr and theos 8.95 fastest Manual H pattern GTR in one foul swoop. The new mods are going to blow peoples minds but keeping it a little secret for now and see if we can pull it off.

Item 1 for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$1800 ono

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

310797_2612609561618_1798636800_n.jpg

1st item for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$2000

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter and Bracket

Roll over Breather ball setup

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

422709_10150635534533485_2105014345_n.jpg

2nd item for sale:- HKS Drag Exhaust System Cat Back, 4" stainless with a HKS Titanium 4" Cannon!!!! (Very Very Very Rare Exhaust system)

$500

66744_1637929355222_7788879_n.jpg

66744_1637929395223_4306257_n.jpg

66744_1637929435224_4430447_n.jpg

3rd item for sale:- Front R32 GTR Standard Brakes all been kitted out and billet dogbones to suit bigger front rotors, R33 GTR Brembo Rear brakes and Rotors, All the brakes have been kitted out and had new rotors approximately 12months work on the drag strip, roughly 20passes. Pictures are when it was freshly painted, but front calipers have paint coming off front brake fluid I split on them. Can repaint front calipers if needed but no biggy.

$1000 for the hole lot.

Brembo sticker on front ones are fake just to match the rears :P

58036_1744178571386_7743040_n.jpg

and rear ones are real brembos and now has sticker back on there.

155387_1744178931395_6472588_n.jpg

inside 19" rims but also fit inside my 17" drag rims.

292527_4227980784889_2087269868_n.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Making a 4" Titanium Dump Pipe that goes into a side pipe under the door, aswell as a 50mm Titanium Screamer side pipe from the Wastegate. Will save over 20kgs of weight over the old exhaust system.

Hey dude, definately cool that youve gone all out on this build.

Found a video that may be of interest to you. If you skip to 3.20, youll see yellow R32 GTR making a 8.11 second pass and 1.018 sec 60 footer. They end up talking about the engine etc but its all in Japanese.

EDIT: Just did some backtracing and found the full spec list etc....

http://www.bea.hi-ho.ne.jp/avance/yellowmonster.htm

  • 1 month later...

Haven't done a update in awhile as the car has been out of action since Jambo last year, have slowly pulled my finger out and got my shit together to bring this car back big, better, faster, stronger. Over the next few weeks the car is getting a major overhaul in preparation for Local Motor Mayham at Palmyra Dragway at the end of the month.

Got 3 weeks to get this work list done gonna be stretched for time:

- Full carbon Fibre Strange braking system to go on (Saving Approx 30KG rotational mass)

- Carbon Fibre Doors with Lexan Windows (Saving approx. 60KG)

- Custom 4" Titanium Exhaust System with Titanium Screamer Pipe (Saving about 20KG)

- Rebuild PPG Gearbox with all new bearings, main shaft and 3rd Gear + OS Giken Billet Sandwich Plate going in.

- All new fuel system with Aeromotive Mechanical Pump mounted to the rear of the Peterson Dry Sump Pump. ( Saving over 40kg over old system)

- Custom made fuel cell mounted in front of car 15L Capacity.

- Upgrading to Twin Parachutes as the single one was not sufficient for power and weight.

+ more power for more MPH aiming to take out both the Manual and Auto gearbox Street Tyre World Records, quite confident we can achieve this feat, time will tell I guess :woot: . Goal is 8.3 - 8.4 Sec pass which just over half a second from our current PB. Gonna be an action packed season....bring it on can't wait.

Will post pics soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...