Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is my slow build up.

In early 2007 i purchased a 1999 R34 GT-four manual non-turbo through Iron Chef Imports. It had done 74,000k's and was stock as a rock.

When he found me the car i thought of doing a whole GTR four-door, and that where it leaves me today.

So far:

Performance

-HKS 3" cat-back

-Blitz pod

-Nismo fuel pump

Handling

-Cusco Zero 2E coilovers

-Cusco front strut brace

-Cusco front upper camber arms

-Cusco Front caster arms

-Cusco Toe arms

-Cusco Rear camber arms

-Ikeya Formula Traction arms

-Nismo Sway bars front & Rear

Wheels

Work Emotion 18x10 +18 with Kumho KU36 235/40/18

Braking

-R34 GTR v-spec brembos

-ADR approved braided brake lines

-Cusco master cylinder stopper.

-Stock Brembo pads

Stereo

-JVC dvd/tv/cd double din head unit

-Focal front speakers

-Rockford fosgate rear speakers

-Digital design amp

Exterior

-Nismo clear side & front indicators

-Origin Japan Carbon Fibre Boot lip with welded holes and shaved brake light

Interior

-Nardi 330mm deep corn steering wheel

-Defi BF series oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, controller unit 2

-Superior Japan Carbon fibre air con shroud

-Superior Japan Carbon fibre shift surround

-Carbon fibre overlay door handles, cluster, kick panels, window a/c vents

-BNR34 pedals

-Nismo GT shift knob

Pretty sure thats it.

From now on i have brought

-Brand New HKS GTRS Turbos

-BNR34 Getrag

-BNR34 subframe with diff, hubs, shafts

-Trust 12row oil cooler with relocation kit

-2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps

-BNR34 wiring loom

-Tomei 044 holder x2

-R888 semi's cause i will need grip lol

The Plans

-Rb26/30 with Spool imports 3.4L stroker

-Seam welded

-East-bear full cage

-East bear sides and rear bar

-BNR34 Nismo front bar

-BNR34 front gaurds

-Wider wheels hehe

-Custom 1piece tail shaft

-Full Bride interior with bride Gias low-max seats and rear seats retrimmed in bride fabric

-Full Titanium dumps, front and exhaust

+++more

Over the past week i removed the factory sound deadening, and taken the air con out. (it leaked water in the drivers foot well)

Luke

post-38653-1248347893_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347904_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347931_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347977_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348007_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348121_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348318_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348381_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348419_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348627_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348692_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348750_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348781_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348884_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348939_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349098_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349227_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349298_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349352_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349422_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349480_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349635_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280439-r34-gt-four-rb26-time-attack-build/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

Well last night after browsing the jap auctions i managed to find a BNR34 RB26. Came out of a wreck with 70thou k's on it.

Picked it up hell cheap.

Only thing missing is the turbos and injectors.

post-38653-1251112562_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1251112577_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1251112593_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Been waiting eagerly for you to start this project ever since you told me about it ... g'luck buddy, it's gonna be mad once it's all done. Can't wait to see it on Motorkhana.

Ive fitted up a 260RS brake master cylinder and booster, aswell as a cusco brake cylinder stopper.

Couple pics of the dash and turbos for you guys to.

As for the spool engine, ive just read what they have posted on the forums but nothing seems concrete yet as to release dates. I'll be contacting them when i have some money tho.

Cheers

post-38653-1252577022_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577088_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577277_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577315_thumb.jpg

The cage is a modified cusco r33 front cage and a safety21 rear with a harness bar welded in.

Those wheels will stick out an extra 3mm on the rear. The fronts im not to sure with mine being 4wd the hubs sit closer in im sure.

good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...