Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is my slow build up.

In early 2007 i purchased a 1999 R34 GT-four manual non-turbo through Iron Chef Imports. It had done 74,000k's and was stock as a rock.

When he found me the car i thought of doing a whole GTR four-door, and that where it leaves me today.

So far:

Performance

-HKS 3" cat-back

-Blitz pod

-Nismo fuel pump

Handling

-Cusco Zero 2E coilovers

-Cusco front strut brace

-Cusco front upper camber arms

-Cusco Front caster arms

-Cusco Toe arms

-Cusco Rear camber arms

-Ikeya Formula Traction arms

-Nismo Sway bars front & Rear

Wheels

Work Emotion 18x10 +18 with Kumho KU36 235/40/18

Braking

-R34 GTR v-spec brembos

-ADR approved braided brake lines

-Cusco master cylinder stopper.

-Stock Brembo pads

Stereo

-JVC dvd/tv/cd double din head unit

-Focal front speakers

-Rockford fosgate rear speakers

-Digital design amp

Exterior

-Nismo clear side & front indicators

-Origin Japan Carbon Fibre Boot lip with welded holes and shaved brake light

Interior

-Nardi 330mm deep corn steering wheel

-Defi BF series oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, controller unit 2

-Superior Japan Carbon fibre air con shroud

-Superior Japan Carbon fibre shift surround

-Carbon fibre overlay door handles, cluster, kick panels, window a/c vents

-BNR34 pedals

-Nismo GT shift knob

Pretty sure thats it.

From now on i have brought

-Brand New HKS GTRS Turbos

-BNR34 Getrag

-BNR34 subframe with diff, hubs, shafts

-Trust 12row oil cooler with relocation kit

-2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps

-BNR34 wiring loom

-Tomei 044 holder x2

-R888 semi's cause i will need grip lol

The Plans

-Rb26/30 with Spool imports 3.4L stroker

-Seam welded

-East-bear full cage

-East bear sides and rear bar

-BNR34 Nismo front bar

-BNR34 front gaurds

-Wider wheels hehe

-Custom 1piece tail shaft

-Full Bride interior with bride Gias low-max seats and rear seats retrimmed in bride fabric

-Full Titanium dumps, front and exhaust

+++more

Over the past week i removed the factory sound deadening, and taken the air con out. (it leaked water in the drivers foot well)

Luke

post-38653-1248347893_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347904_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347931_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248347977_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348007_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348121_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348318_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348381_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348419_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348627_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348692_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348750_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348781_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348884_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248348939_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349098_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349227_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349298_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349352_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349422_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349480_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1248349635_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280439-r34-gt-four-rb26-time-attack-build/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

Well last night after browsing the jap auctions i managed to find a BNR34 RB26. Came out of a wreck with 70thou k's on it.

Picked it up hell cheap.

Only thing missing is the turbos and injectors.

post-38653-1251112562_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1251112577_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1251112593_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Been waiting eagerly for you to start this project ever since you told me about it ... g'luck buddy, it's gonna be mad once it's all done. Can't wait to see it on Motorkhana.

Ive fitted up a 260RS brake master cylinder and booster, aswell as a cusco brake cylinder stopper.

Couple pics of the dash and turbos for you guys to.

As for the spool engine, ive just read what they have posted on the forums but nothing seems concrete yet as to release dates. I'll be contacting them when i have some money tho.

Cheers

post-38653-1252577022_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577088_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577277_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1252577315_thumb.jpg

The cage is a modified cusco r33 front cage and a safety21 rear with a harness bar welded in.

Those wheels will stick out an extra 3mm on the rear. The fronts im not to sure with mine being 4wd the hubs sit closer in im sure.

good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...