Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trip back to the work shop :thumbsup:

post-38653-1279969726_thumb.jpg

Since ive got the car back thursday night ive been cleaning up any welding splatters and wire brushing the welds.

post-38653-1279969631_thumb.jpgpost-38653-1279969762_thumb.jpgpost-13456-1125369491.jpgpost-38653-1279969886_thumb.jpg

Today i got the cage all rubbed down and started putting etch primer on it to stop the rust :D

post-38653-1279969940_thumb.jpg post-38653-1279969987_thumb.jpg post-38653-1279970079_thumb.jpgpost-38653-1279970124_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1279969816_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

^^^ hahaha he is so serious that hes workin so hard pimping his ass to pay for it :) on a serious not he workes bloody hard and from what ive seen so far he's fanatical with the details. sint that right luke. loving every bit of this build.. you are a patient man :)

Thanks for the kind words Jenkies. :)

Had my new brakes arrive in the post the other day. Brembo 6Pot with 380mm 2-piece rotor. Im currently pulling them apart, replacing the seals and giving them a good clean. Should be like new when done :)

post-38653-1281446200_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1281446264_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1281446353_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1281446427_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1281446453_thumb.jpg

Most likely Alcon 4pot rears.

Although if i find some endless rears or Brembo's i might grab them.

Not really planning to spend much more on it for awhile as i've paid for flights to Japan, Jan 12th to 1st Feb

i should stay away from Yahoo auctions, brought these last night.

Ohlins Flag-R coilovers. Top of the range Ohlins coilovers that come out of Japan.

Spring rates are 10k front and rear. Im getting a company called "Swift" to put there coils in them with a 8k front and 6k rear.

Heres the link to the Ohlins site http://www.carrozzeriajapan.co.jp/ohlins/4w/flag-r.html

Retail new at $6500 delivered.

The "Swift" springs are cheap. $205+shipping for a pair is great. Used by Le mans cars, F1 etc

Have a look at the vids of them here http://www.swiftsprings.com/advantage.html

post-38653-1283158233_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...