Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Not much to update, just a whole heap of more parts on the way. Currently over in Japan doing the whole touring of tune shops etc.

So to add to the list of items i have.

2x Bride Gardis3 FIA approved seats

2x Bride FX-type FIA approved rails

Takata Harness

Billion Power Steering Tank

HKS SSQ3 bov

Nismo Thermostat

Defi Turbo Gauge

Voltex 1700mm Wet Carbon GT wing

HKS Turbo to Pod induction piping

Tomei Intake headlight

WorksBell detachable bosskit

ARC Side Flow Air removel tank

+more to come

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks mate.

Just been spending the last couple of days gutting the drivers side doors.

Going to weld in a couple of thin rods on the doors to mount the acrylic windows and brace them alittle.

post-38653-0-77308500-1299760151_thumb.jpg

post-38653-0-69552000-1299760189_thumb.jpg

I say go all the way and weld the rear doors shut!

refresh my memory, do 34 sedans have doors with window frames? from memory they do. it should make fitting the lexan a fair bit easier. it's a bit of a bitch on GTRs as with nothing to support the top of the windows they flex a lot.

Yeah on sedans theres window frames so alot easier for mounting. Was thinking of welding the rear shut but I might wanna chuck tools in there if I'm going to a track day etc, not gonna make much difference I don't think.

no it wont, but if you did weld the doors shut it means you could basically remove everything (including latch etc) except the outer skin itself, could even remove the hinges with some thought. but yeah it loses a little bit of rear access.

Manage to weigh the rear door up tonight and comes in at 20kg, after i made it look pretty it weighs 10kg and front doors weigh in at 28kg and i got them down around 12-13kg.

:)

If only i had the patience and like most people the money to go nuts on my car a bit more.. 10-15k doesnt get you much these days so id hate to see the final bill on this.

You going to track it all around Aus or just go to whatever it is thats local to adelaide?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, the cause of fuel spills and smells from the top of the tank is almost always the rubber hoses that are up there, not the tank seal.
    • 1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded.  Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.
    • Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now.  1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring?         Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top?  2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this?        I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)  
    • Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.  
    • I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK  
×
×
  • Create New...