Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes it does. If you want to flog the guts out of ANY vehicle, it has to be built to suit your bent.

I drive pretty hard on occasions. But there is a big (mental) difference between a hard (on) and a flog.

Actually, I didn't flog the guts out of my M35.

My 9.3km/L fuel average over 40,000kms before my turbo let go can attest to that.

Before I bought it? Who knows.

I do find it odd (and somewhat upsetting) that more and more M35 turbos are shedding their ceramic exhaust wheel...

Stupid $50, PCV valve can stuff up the running of a car so much and stupid Nissan mechanics tell you that there is nothing wrong when the car idles at 800rpm instead of 650rpm as the sticker under the bonnet specifies.

Thank god for a helpful dealer and another forum member who had a similar problem who helped me work it out.

I must respond :P

The brakes are as-per C34 Laurel Sedan, but I agree that with the wagon platform, they should be bigger.

The Series 1 has an oil cooler (adjacent the filter), doesn't the series 2 have the same setup?

And, The S1 trans cooler is a bit piss-weak, but I'm sure it's fine in Japan :)

yeah it has that oil to water cooler . the gt-t has a factory oil to air cooler in front of the radiator for the engine (being the same motor but in a higher state of tune from the factory in the stagea ). i want one . mine has no trans cooler . ( manual )

and yeah the stagea is pretty good on the whole just some details need addressing

Which is more reliable: C34 or M35? RB or V?

Too general a question to answer fairly. The M35 runs higher boost so more likely to blow a turbo (since the turbo uses the same or similar materials and seems to carry the same limitations). Some people claim their M35 runs as high as 15psi without modifications...something weird going on there.

Other than that the VQ engine is probably a better designed engine than the RB (I really dont know but its won more awards for what its worth). As for reliability, based on personal experience, having owned a C34 s2 for 2 years and now a M35 for nearly 1 year:

* The C34 had wrecked rear suspension when I bought it (fixed under dealer stat warranty), and the turbo died on it, plus cracked exhaust manifold. As yet I've not heard of M35's having the cracked exhaust manifold problem - that seems to be a RB thing.

* After nearly 1 year the M35 has no mechanical problems at all. It did have a dirty throttle body but any turbo car would be the same. Once cleaned it ran beautifully.

They also fixed the passenger mirror rust spot on the M35, pretty much every C34 has that one. We're splitting hairs here though.

Everyone's experiences are different which makes it very difficult to compare reliability. The M35 seems to have issues with the turbo & boost, and the C34 has issues with the exhaust manifold cracking, and the turbo isn't exactly its strong point either.

As for the BAD bits:

C34 (s2): Auto takes too long to shift gears (makes tiptronic useless). Shift kit made it PERFECT though. Should've had more power out of the factory, and 17" wheels.

M35: Auto takes far too long to shift gears...it masks the power delivery potential of the awesome VQ25DET. Wife wont let me buy shift kit (yeah I know thats not the stagea's fault)... :P

Bad bits for me

- stanadrd front strut bar gets in the way of a service, also all the extra pipes for emissions just makes a pain

- could have used better material for the rear seat levers in the tailgate section (one of mine were already broken when i got it and CBF replacing it)

- drivers seat position (is it me or is the driver seat sit higher than the passenger seat (no matter what I still hit the roof anyways - joys of being 194cm tall)

- triptronic shift lag (yes it can be cured with a shift kit) - but I don't think Nissan were thinking about people race shifting their Stagea's

- lack of a dimmer switch

and my major gripe

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Bad bits for me

and my major gripe

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Would also like to know where to get them lol, 2 of mine are out.

Climate control lights blowing out - fine, they can be replaced - but there are a nightmare to find especailly the ones for the buttons (beacasuse they are very small - does anyone know where to get them)

Theirs a Navara- very popular dash globe (can get them from repco) that is around the same size that you buy and pull apart for the globe and wire it into the stock holder. Its easy as literally like a one minute job.

Informed chefstagea of this the other day and he did his 260 on the weekend :starwars: Im unsure of the part number but I think if we are lucky he will still have the receipt.

The globe is same sort of size as stock and base of it is white.

i cant fkn believe no one has mentioned the farking reversing alarm that is only audible inside the car! Made me want to headbut the dash everytime i heard it :merli:

I second that. The japs and their chimes!

What is the best way to get rid of it?

Also, WTF with the hydraulic hand brake?

hahahaha, why do you hate it so much? i personally love it! it could be a little quieter, but it's great! i've even kept it in my s13 :merli:

the "keys in the ignition" chime i could do without though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
×
×
  • Create New...