Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Battery went flat a few days ago, battery is about 6 years old as it is an 03 model. Battery cells were gone.

Had the battery replaced. Went to the petrol station to fill up about 3 km's down the road. Locked the car then unlocked. Went to start the car and the rpm's went up as normal then dropped which lead the car to turn off. Oil, battery and engine light came on. Second attempt same symptoms. Third attempt turned on however this time the rpm completely dropped just above 0 then all of the sudden went back to 700rpm drove off as car was running. On the third attempt it almost sounded like the car wanted to turn off. Got home locked the car and left it locked for about an hour, i again attempted to turn the car on same thing engine turned on, rpm dropped all the way and turned off.

Please help my auto electrician does not know what is wrong with the car, it is the first time he has worked on a car like this.

Kind Regards Yianni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280543-2003-350gt-coupe-starting-problem/
Share on other sites

Hi Chris not to sure.

I have been doing some research on a few infiniti websites and sourced another person that had the same problem. He referred to the procedure on how to reset the ecu, throttle pedal release and idle air volume learning and it seemed to have resolve his issue so i might give that a go. Its definitely not an immobiliser problem as for starters the car would not even turn on. Apparently the battery of the car was disconnected overnight so it reset the ecu however the auto electrician didn't teach the ecu which regulates the idle etc.

Edited by T88turbo

hey guys this might sound realy stupid, though i had the same problem, and it wasnt my ecu or battery... it was acutally my spark plugs..... when was the last time u checked your plugs? see if there is any oil getting to these plugs, if so see a mechanic.

Nope plugs were replaced 2 months ago.

It only happens on hot starts, its all normal when the engine is cold. This is because when the engine is hot it does not need to rev high, revs drop instantly to about 600rpm as normal.

Stuff it im going to take it to nissan, i bet you its the ecu that needs to be programmed. Remember the ecu regulates the idle, and a thousand other things. I tried this procedure on the infiniti website that resets and teaches the ecu but it didnt work.

Here is the link if you need it.

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=356397

Now that you mention it, my 300gt has been doing this as well..

On hot starts, revs drop really low and on a few occassions stalled. Most times, after starting, I just rev it a little and its all good.

has never stalled on me when actually driving only when starting the car. Might have to look into it a bit more.

thought about the fuel type you have been using?? i have another car that has trouble starting when i use shell fuel. BP and mobil have been fine. friggen italian cars! lol

it might be as simple as that for you

hi bilistic,

Did you have your battery disconnected more than 24 hours? I can understand the ecu learning your driving habbits however how does it learn not to stall on hot start ups by reving it are you sure this worked? and did it stall at the beginning when you had your battery changed? I can't understand why it doesnt stall on cold start ups???

hi bilistic,

Did you have your battery disconnected more than 24 hours? I can understand the ecu learning your driving habbits however how does it learn not to stall on hot start ups by reving it are you sure this worked? and did it stall at the beginning when you had your battery changed? I can't understand why it doesnt stall on cold start ups???

hey mate

yeh i had my battery disconnected for over 1 week when i installed the plenum spacer (long story lol)

when i finished the install i reconnected the battery and i did an ecu reset straight away before i even started the car again

the car started fine and i took it for a 20min test drive for the ecu to start learning again. i got home and parked the car. i had to move the car again after 5 min and when i started the car - stall.

It kept doing this for about 1 week. Cold starts were always fine. Any start where the engine went into cold start mode (higher revs than normal) it didnt stall. When it was hot (example, went to petrol station to fill up, turn on car - stalled) the car stalled. To get around it stalling, every time i started the car i just blipped the throttle to make sure it didnt stall. I was doing this so, that like you i was going to go and get it checked out.

However, after about 1 week, the problem went away. now i can start my car and its like back to normal again.

Hope this helps.

I use BP Ultimate 98 Octane all the time since i have had the car, and the previous owner did also.

Edited by BLISTC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -9s are discontinued supposedly. But you can still get Nismo R3 turbos which are something like a -7 but subtly different? -7s are also available. HKS GTIII-SS and GTIII-2530 are also available but they're journal bearing MHI turbos.
    • Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more.    Some items that will save you money  - plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.   -Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever.    Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.          
    • Welcome back to the scene! Godzilla Motorsports were well regarded back in the day.  My GT-R had work done there prior to my ownership.   SRS (Street Race Solutions) in Toowoomba worth a look.  They've built some pretty wild Skylines. Their YouTube channel is comedic to watch!  I'm sure they're all on the glass BBQ but they get shit done! 🤣
    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
×
×
  • Create New...