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Zebra's 2010 Mra Gts-t Build

zebra

By zebra,
in Motorsport Builds

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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Posted
Hahahah yep, good thing with the microtech is that its quite simple, no VCT wiring, No AAC valve, etc etc, so its just injectors, ignition, fuel pumps and the CAS, although I have heard that the altenator needs to be hooked up to the dash light otherwise it wont charge....that sounds like an old wives tale to me though, guess I will find out

Brake lights are easy, headlights will just be a switch on the dash same with wipers

Charcoal cannister is long gone lol, just gotta remove the lines now. I thought about no booster, but my knees are fubar, and i sometimes struggle on track with the booster, so non assisted brakes are a no no.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :P

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

The only people I've heard of that have reverted, haven't changed the brake pedal ratio.

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :(

A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

That is possible, though some went to an aftermarket pedal box, which no doubt was different to standard (but possibly not correct, or maybe was, never got into that detail about it) and said the braking/pedal feel wasnt as good as standard. No suprises there. However, I cant see it being as good as the standard assisted setup. Seems like more a space saving/minor weight saving thing to do, rather then something that will actually kelp you go faster around the track....

But each to their own :( Lol though maybe qld'ers cant work it out as well as you nsw'ers.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Exactly. Change the pedal ratio and size the master cylinder properly for a setup without assistance and it works okay.

You will bend tr firewall and pedal bracket if not reinforced well.

Hence why most atleast buy an overhung pedal box with a 6.25 pedal ratio.

It's not as simple as relocating the pivot pin to change the ratio either. The pushrods needs to remain square to the rear of the master cylinder so there is some stuffing around with cylinder mounting.

Well worth the effort of going non assisted.

Who ever was doing that pedal box had no idea how to set it up properly. A well done system will give you a far superior pedal feel and feedback, it's more consistant particularly when you start left foot braking, you gain proper bias control and the pedal can be styled to suit anyones driving habbits with the right masters.

It took us a while to get our heads around master sizing and so forth but done right they are worth it.

Edited by Risking
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

I use tilton products as I have an awesome supplier for them. In a skyline we use a steel twin pedal hung box. by the time you factor in the two pedals, the mounting you need to do ( really needs to hang from a dash bar on a cage) the three master cylinders ( 2 brake 1 clutch) 3 resiviours and hoses etc there is very little if any weight saving.

Using a 3 pedal tilton floor mount in my r34 which is possibly as heavy as factory system if not more.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Good to hear you guys figured it all out. We never bothered looking into it after we hadnt seen anyone else with much success doing it. Plus never had any issues with the factory setup and alcon brakes. It took me quite a while to left brake and get used to the sensativity....But like anything you adapt and get a feel for it.

But I can see how the setup could easily be tailored to suit.

Edited by r33_racer
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
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Posted
A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

Awesome :(

That is exactly what i needed to know :D

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