Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello.

I know it's somewhere in this forum, but i can't find it.

I've got the RB25DET engine and i have mounted an fmic and a bleed air valve.

I have finally learned to get of the line with 0.8bar (~12psi), and the shifting 1-2-D goes smooth.

But today when we were out to test i've got beeten by almost everyone with similar effect. I got 2-3 carlengths of the line, and a FWD with 300hp manage to get past me in 200meters. :)

So how can i get the engine to give more hp with a very limited amount of money? (I know i need a larger downpipe, but the rest.)

Is it possible to change the fuelmaps in the standard computerbox?

I've tried to talk to people here, but noone knows anything about the car here in Sweden, so all i can do is ask you on the other side of the world for help. :P

If you have an awd auto you will be losing about 70kw in driveline losses. You cannot easily tune your engine unless you have a series 2 stagea. For series 1 i would suggest a Greddy E-manage would be the best way to get some tunability. The next best alternative would be to get an Apexi SITC and SAFC (try ebay). BTW an electronic boost controller will build boost quicker than a bleed valve and hold it better.

The fmic will not be giving you any more power at this level. If you have not already get a highflow panel filter for your standard airbox. You need a 3in turbo back exhaust ( I have a split dump, some people prefer a bellmouth). Then if you have access to a four wheel drive dyno you could advance the base timing by means of the cas ( while using some reliable knock detection gear). This will give a little more zip and show up your air/fuel problems. You should get an SAFC at least or go straight for the Greddy E-Manage.

Good luck!

ps there is heaps of information here. Read the DIY section above - read all of the Jaycar thread one quiet night - even if you don't get the Jaycar gear you will learn a lot!

Gday

Its good to hear your not afraid to get out there and have a go! Remembering the old stag has 207kw and weighs 1700kg I wouldn't be to surprised that

a 300kw car that probably weighs half the amount got over you :P

The answer to your question is CASH and lots of it other wise you are just going to do damage to something ( probably not the answer you wanted to hear)

Good point! Its not too hard to get a 2wd manual skyline up to 200kw atw but to get my S1 Stagea over the 200AWKW mark (due for dyno in about 3 weeks hope to get 200 -220awkw) has cost me over $6000 not counting suspension and brakes. I hate to think what Tangles has spent to get over 240AWKW but I am guessing it would not be less than $10k!!

Gday

Its good to hear your not afraid to get out there and have a go! Remembering the old stag has 207kw and weighs 1700kg I wouldn't be to surprised that

a 300kw car that probably weighs half the amount got over you :)

The answer to your question is CASH and lots of it other wise you are just going to do damage to something ( probably not the answer you wanted to hear)

Sorry, my bad. The car i was against got ~220kW/1300kg. I got 173/1600.

The things i have heard is that's possible to get ~200kW in the stag without big modifications.

All i want to know is how high i can get with standard specifications, and how i do it.

The goal is 372kW (500hp) so i will change almost everything, but not this year. :P

Good point! Its not too hard to get a 2wd manual skyline up to 200kw atw but to get my S1 Stagea over the 200AWKW mark (due for dyno in about 3 weeks hope to get 200 -220awkw) has cost me over $6000 not counting suspension and brakes. I hate to think what Tangles has spent to get over 240AWKW but I am guessing it would not be less than $10k!!

he said his car owes him 30-40k at this point

SAFC would be the easiest and cheapest way to get near your target. You won't be able to adjust the timing (as you would with full engine management computers like PowerFC's) but just leaning out the AFR's will help.

If you don't care about the auto box smoothness or longevity then a PowerFC or full engine management system will get you where you want to go.

So it's a power fc i need?

Which make and model do fit?

I've recognised that the R33 RB25DET got an other box. Is there any one that's "plug and play" or do i have to cut all wires and hope?

Is there any way to manipulate the stock box?

I know there's a really big jump at 200kw, where turbo, injectors and the ecu runs out and it will be a lot of money to get over that. :angry:

If you really want 373kw down the track you'll be converting to a manual gearbox which will open up the possibilities for an ecu. In the meantime i suggest you get a greddy e-manage or an safc and sitc which will do you til then and you can sell them when you want to upgrade.

If you really want 373kw down the track you'll be converting to a manual gearbox which will open up the possibilities for an ecu. In the meantime i suggest you get a greddy e-manage or an safc and sitc which will do you til then and you can sell them when you want to upgrade.

I want the auto transmission to be there when i'm finished. :angry: I know most of in will have to be changed, but i need a challange and a goal.

What parts of the gearbox is controlled by the ecu? And how can i get them controlled sepratly?

Do anyone got the pinout f枚r the stagea ecu? I have found the pinout for a R34, but is it the same? What i've read in here there's som changes in the pinout. :S

And i know there's a risk that the turbo will break, and that's a risk i will take. :)

It is possible to beef up the auto box to handle higher power.

BTW you haven't confirmed whether you have an S1 Stagea or S2 (neo engine, tiptronic). I am assuming you have an S1.

The computer that controls the auto is inside the main ecu. I have just been through this with my car. My engine management functions are now carried out by a chipped RB32 ecu but it has had to be piggybacked onto the stock ecu - a wiring nightmare which is beyond my abilities and i wouldn't recommend it. I would strongly recommend the Greddy E-manage or it may be possible to fit a complete S2 ecu and loom in which case it can be fitted with a Nistune chip.

Another member has kindly translated the S1 pinout from the Japanese manual and if you send me an email address I can send it to you as an attachment. bobvanruyssevelt@yahoo.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
    • That is correct,  I have a forged RB25/30det NEO hiding away safely and I wanted to use the very rare greddy vct adj cam gear on this new setup and so I just used the whole thing on my s1 instead of pulling it appear because I'm lazy af 馃槄馃馃徏
  • Create New...