Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Im wondering if anyone has changed r34 GT-T To GT-R Rear Guards( quater panel)? and if anyone could help me out?

Firstly how do you change them when that bit ( check picture bellow) is connect To the roof? Do you have to cut it or something?

Also Where can i find a pair of GTR Guards for sale?

Thanks

post-62843-1248584821_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280744-r34-gt-t-to-gt-r-conversion-guards/
Share on other sites

thats add-on part

go vivagarage to have a look

you may need gtr rear bumper and gtr side skirt...

okay so all i need is that add-on part to make it flare out like the GTR? Also i know bout the rear bumper and sideskirts nd the tail-lights aswell.

Thanks

EDIT: I couldnt find it on vivagarage, do you have a link?

Edited by NicKzKe

If you do the rear fenders then you will need the rear bumper, and also the side skirting and GTR tailight covers as they are wider at the bottom. When the side skirting is done then you will need the front fenders and also the fender runners, then you will need the GTR front bumper as it is wider to allow for the wider front fenders and then you will need the GTR bonnet to use the GTR front bumper. You will also need GTR bonnet hinges, GTR bumper support bar and bonnet locking mechanism. In other words you need and entire GTR conversion to do it right, unless you get GTT-R conversion fenders that just give the back a wider stance without affecting the side skirts and rear tailight covers.

  • 2 weeks later...

proper way:

buy rear gtr quarters from nissan or someone wrecking one - its a cut and weld job... meaning cutting out your ones and welding in new ones.

tail lights - swap over

rear bar - swap over

side skirts - swap over but also need front guards to fit properly

boot lid i think is fine but not 100% sure

cheap way:

buy fiberglass quarters, rivet and bog them in

if you do it the right way, the finish will be great and will definitely last you longer than the cheap way as fiberglass quarters are notorious for cracking due to body flex which means you will be repairing them forever.

Listen to old mate above me. Its not an easy job by any means (to do properly) Shit I reckon you could be looking at upto 8-10 grand to do properly (IE by a good bodywork bloke) If it was me Id just get the east bear GTR conversion kit.

proper way:

buy rear gtr quarters from nissan or someone wrecking one - its a cut and weld job... meaning cutting out your ones and welding in new ones.

tail lights - swap over

rear bar - swap over

side skirts - swap over but also need front guards to fit properly

boot lid i think is fine but not 100% sure

cheap way:

buy fiberglass quarters, rivet and bog them in

if you do it the right way, the finish will be great and will definitely last you longer than the cheap way as fiberglass quarters are notorious for cracking due to body flex which means you will be repairing them forever.

Don't know who you should listen to since they are partially correct. The job is big, alot of time and alot of effort put in for something that looks so simple to do. It's probably best to have a good think what you want the car for in the long run, since the process can be very expensive. Theres no real shortcuts around it accept for one:

I recommend you look into doing some custom work for side skirts etc, otherwise you will need GT-R skirts and fenders all round. You can get away with GT-R fronts and sides and be able to still use the GT-R rear fenders. Instead of replacing the tailight, you could just FRP prep and paint your current tailights, its probably gonna be alot cheaper to do (unless you get em from a wrecker, and good luck sourcing 34 GTR's floating around, not to mention if you did find one just cut the guards and rip what else if off it while your there).

Your best bet is either leaving the car as is if this is just on a whim and you want the "look", but if your after bigger wheel wells for larger wheels and keeping the car in the long run (eg. for shows and w/e car etc) Then it might be worth doing.

I for one was satisfied 20 thousand dollars later ... :down: (Yes i could have had a monster 34 GTR by now) i could have built my engine even!!! It is not for the feint of heart. I still need to purchase massive offset rims since my current 18"s in the picture are dwarfed by the guards even with 25mm spacers!

If you go ahead with the job, GOODLUCK!

Ps. As you can see i added some photos of my 34 (started life as a plain standard white 25GT) I have done the front conversion and the rear...didn't need half the things the guys on here are saying to do, but it still is big money and alot of time regardless.

post-44107-1250461947_thumb.jpg

post-44107-1250461958_thumb.jpg

post-44107-1250461969_thumb.jpg

Don't know who you should listen to since they are partially correct. The job is big, alot of time and alot of effort put in for something that looks so simple to do. It's probably best to have a good think what you want the car for in the long run, since the process can be very expensive. Theres no real shortcuts around it accept for one:

I recommend you look into doing some custom work for side skirts etc, otherwise you will need GT-R skirts and fenders all round. You can get away with GT-R fronts and sides and be able to still use the GT-R rear fenders. Instead of replacing the tailight, you could just FRP prep and paint your current tailights, its probably gonna be alot cheaper to do (unless you get em from a wrecker, and good luck sourcing 34 GTR's floating around, not to mention if you did find one just cut the guards and rip what else if off it while your there).

Your best bet is either leaving the car as is if this is just on a whim and you want the "look", but if your after bigger wheel wells for larger wheels and keeping the car in the long run (eg. for shows and w/e car etc) Then it might be worth doing.

I for one was satisfied 20 thousand dollars later ... :) (Yes i could have had a monster 34 GTR by now) i could have built my engine even!!! It is not for the feint of heart. I still need to purchase massive offset rims since my current 18"s in the picture are dwarfed by the guards even with 25mm spacers!

If you go ahead with the job, GOODLUCK!

Ps. As you can see i added some photos of my 34 (started life as a plain standard white 25GT) I have done the front conversion and the rear...didn't need half the things the guys on here are saying to do, but it still is big money and alot of time regardless.

Awsome car man, and great info thank you, but ive decided to just go for the Eastbear kit for the GT-T with a GT-R look at front.

Might think of a GTR wen i go full licence, but yeah

Thanks mate. Love your Number plates also =]

Awsome car man, and great info thank you, but ive decided to just go for the Eastbear kit for the GT-T with a GT-R look at front.

Might think of a GTR wen i go full licence, but yeah

Thanks mate. Love your Number plates also =]

No problem, anytime...

That would be your best bet, the money wasted on fabricating parts and going through the process mentioned is only worth it if you truely want to have something different.

The money you save now would be better spent on a quality GT-R. As for the Eastbear idea, they look good but if your going to go half half, i'd suggest going something cheaper (as Eastbear can be a pocket drainer too) A copy Impul kit all round with a good set of rims and offset would set a 34 off quite nicely and still look very menacing with decent ride height. You could even get your front fenders pumped to make it look more like a GT-R and even add a front lip to give it a lower stance.

I just thought i'd mention that idea since you could probably pick up the whole kit and paint it and possibly have money to spare on some nice rims compared to the money you'd spend on JUST the front end of the East-Bear kit.

It's up to your taste at the end and i think both would look extremely nice. Make sure you post pictures when you are done with it all!

Heres some pics of the kit (One is of a SAU member Cara back in the day before she transformed her 34) the other is a front bar shot and one has the front bar without side skirts, so it can show you how it sets the front off.

post-44107-1250533078_thumb.jpg

post-44107-1250533091_thumb.jpg

post-44107-1250533106_thumb.jpg

No problem, anytime...

That would be your best bet, the money wasted on fabricating parts and going through the process mentioned is only worth it if you truely want to have something different.

The money you save now would be better spent on a quality GT-R. As for the Eastbear idea, they look good but if your going to go half half, i'd suggest going something cheaper (as Eastbear can be a pocket drainer too) A copy Impul kit all round with a good set of rims and offset would set a 34 off quite nicely and still look very menacing with decent ride height. You could even get your front fenders pumped to make it look more like a GT-R and even add a front lip to give it a lower stance.

I just thought i'd mention that idea since you could probably pick up the whole kit and paint it and possibly have money to spare on some nice rims compared to the money you'd spend on JUST the front end of the East-Bear kit.

It's up to your taste at the end and i think both would look extremely nice. Make sure you post pictures when you are done with it all!

Heres some pics of the kit (One is of a SAU member Cara back in the day before she transformed her 34) the other is a front bar shot and one has the front bar without side skirts, so it can show you how it sets the front off.

The kit im getting is made for a GT, doesnt fit on a gtr. The front end is the GTR bonnet and front bar as for the back and side its jst normal i think.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/East-Bear-...uct-Zenki-51706

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/East-Bear-Side...-T-2-Door-53404

img etting gtr oem fenders, found 1, just need the rhs.

side skirts will have to be custom tho so getting GTT impul skirts and custom the front section so it lines up with the gtr fender.

NOTE: if you dont or not planning to get the wheels to fit the widebody then please dont do it.

you're just gonna ruin a nice 34.

  • 9 months later...
Don't know who you should listen to since they are partially correct. The job is big, alot of time and alot of effort put in for something that looks so simple to do. It's probably best to have a good think what you want the car for in the long run, since the process can be very expensive. Theres no real shortcuts around it accept for one:

I recommend you look into doing some custom work for side skirts etc, otherwise you will need GT-R skirts and fenders all round. You can get away with GT-R fronts and sides and be able to still use the GT-R rear fenders. Instead of replacing the tailight, you could just FRP prep and paint your current tailights, its probably gonna be alot cheaper to do (unless you get em from a wrecker, and good luck sourcing 34 GTR's floating around, not to mention if you did find one just cut the guards and rip what else if off it while your there).

Your best bet is either leaving the car as is if this is just on a whim and you want the "look", but if your after bigger wheel wells for larger wheels and keeping the car in the long run (eg. for shows and w/e car etc) Then it might be worth doing.

I for one was satisfied 20 thousand dollars later ... :thumbsup: (Yes i could have had a monster 34 GTR by now) i could have built my engine even!!! It is not for the feint of heart. I still need to purchase massive offset rims since my current 18"s in the picture are dwarfed by the guards even with 25mm spacers!

If you go ahead with the job, GOODLUCK!

Ps. As you can see i added some photos of my 34 (started life as a plain standard white 25GT) I have done the front conversion and the rear...didn't need half the things the guys on here are saying to do, but it still is big money and alot of time regardless.

Your skyline is awsome man, seriously it would have to be one of the nicest r34's ive seen...just wondering how much did it cost you to get it looking that sweet.

plus if you would have any clue how someone would go about replicating the look of the apm factory r34 4door gtr conversion and the costs that might be involved

i have attached pics of the car below

post-74264-1276228098_thumb.jpg

post-74264-1276228135_thumb.jpg

post-74264-1276228208_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...