Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is going to sound like a bit of a dumb question, but here goes

I'm looking to buy a GTS R33 Skyline and have been doing a fair bit of research on running costs (this car is my 18th Bday present, but i have to pay for everything but the car... seeings as i don't earn a lot i need to know how much it'll cost me) Anyways, my mum was talking to a guy who owns a black R33 GTS and he said that it cost him $60 a week on petrol cause he puts in like Premium stuff, (i dunno much about petrol as i'm sure you can tell) He also said that you have to with that type of car, cause the regular stuff isn't good for it. i'm just wondering is this true? Or can you just put regular in it?

I know this sounds dumb but any responses will be appreciated. Thanks.

Sometimes regular fuel can make the car ping.

It shouldn't be too bad running your car on regular (I'm sure alot of people do) Just fill up the tank with premium every once in a while just to be safe :P

I went on to the BP site, and read some stuff about ultimate and then the premium unleaded. Which is cheaper? Im guessing premium, and would this be bad for my car or would it do? Sorry to keep asking questions, it just really need to know. Here's the site;

http://www.bp.com.au/products/petrol/premi...d.asp?menuid=ed

Oh roughly how much more does it cost per litre compared to regular stuff? Thanks.

Regular: around 85c per litre

Premium: around 95c per litre

There is an average of around 10c per litre extra for premium. Over a full tank, ie: 50-60 litres its about $4 difference. I would highly recommend premium only in your r33. The car was built and designed for japanese fuel which is 102 (or therebouts) RON count which is the octane level in the fuel.

Regular = 92 RON (could be wrong??)

Premium - 98 RON (could be wrong)

You cant actually get 102 RON normally so the closest thing is Premium. Running Regular will most likely cause the car to ping and do wierd stuff.

Premium is the key if its an imported car :P

Never run regular, unless your stuck out somewhere!!

Bad for the engine really, the Nissan manual states PULP and they built the damn thing, so theyd know best!

Ive found Optimax to be overrated, just my experience tho, could just be my area, I usually run BP Premium or Mobil Premium, had a shortage lately.. Speaking of which anyone ever ran 7-11 Evolution, theyve got a no ethanol tag, states 98 Octane and is fairly cheap for premium.

Regular usually sits from 92-94 RON

Premium 96- 98

Depends on how stingy your local servo is really.

Hell, if you want some real get up and go dump some avgas in it :P

Dont feel dumb to ask questions, if you dont ask, you'll never know, and isnt what these forums are bout?

Cheers

(nice bday present)

If you are driving a n/a 33, you can probably get away with it.. but have your mechanic tune it for lower grade fuel by adjusting the timing of the engine. Its essential for a turbo, but you might get away with it in the n/a as the compression is higher.

Otherwise for longer life, use premium.

I run 98 - thou whether I run Synergy 8000 / BP Ultimate / Optimax usually comes down to price.

If you have those 4c / litre off then Optimax usually becomes the cheapest.

Just filled up on Monday, normal unleaded was 72.x and optimax was 81.x -4c brings it down to 77.x c / litre! Thats the cheapest I've seen in about 3-4 years! (normal unleaded with coupon being 66 (safeway) - 68(shell))

for those in Melb this site should be your bible (no offense to religious folk) - www.racv.com.au Then click the Petrol Prices! ;) It's basically the fuelwatch site, but since fuelwatch started charging you can still get it free at RACV website :)

in melbourne BP is i think always 8c more expensive... so on a 65 litre tank, your looking at an extra $5.... so if you do 400km a week, then your going to spending an extra $300 maybe a year by using ultimate... if you cant afford that, you cant afford a skyline.

bp ultimate & shell optimax are both 98

standard premium is usually 95-96

regular unleaded is only 91

ive run my line on many of the std premiums & the high level premiums and i found that bp ultimate works best for my car (mainly better fuel economy).

in my area bp is 5c cheaper than shell so that helps

dont use regular unleaded as it will increase fuel use & decrease performance in a turbo 'line

supra - all premium fuels are rated at 96.

Mobil synergy, bp ultimate and shell optimax are 98.

I have too heard that shell buys bp ultimate, then adds its own chemicals, but my ex - gf's uncles both work at bp and they both said thats not true...

the main thing you should be concerned about is making sure your car runs on 98... after all, it was actually designed to run on 100ron..

when at a bp station, the grey coloured 'premium unleaded' is 96 octane, while the gold coloured 'bp ultimate' is 98 octane. all of the individual stations i've been to (not all everywhere, just of the ones i've been to) only sell one or the other. places with ultimate usually have it listed on the big sign out the front.

shell also offers optimax (98) & standard premium (96)

p1r4t8r if the Skyline you're getting is turbo, definitely don't put anything in that is less than premium. If you are getting a non turbo though, i would still use premium, but you could probably get away with regular. who here has a non turbo GTS? what fuel do you guys run it on?

I always run on Premium (Optimax).

It's always a good idea to also keep a bottle of that Pro Strength Octane Booster in the boot, in case you need to fill up with regular and there is no premium around.

Just saved running the risk of ping when you kick it in the guts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...