Jump to content
SAU Community

Cas Key Thing Broke Of Cam?

helltd

By helltd,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

helltd Collaborator

helltd

Posted
Posted

Just finished puttin the rb30det in my 32,drove it up the street ran fine,turned it off then tried to start and failed

anyways pulled the cas off to have a look and the little key/slot thingy has broken off my cam,therefore disabling my cas,

so I'm guessing I'll have to change the cam???or does it come off somehow???

And does anyone know where I could get a rb25de exhaust cam cheap in Melbourne asap

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280823-cas-key-thing-broke-of-cam/
Share on other sites
GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think he is saying the end of the camshaft that mates against the CAS shaft has sheared off! If this is the case then your up for a new Camshaft for sure. Are you sure it's not the end of the CAS shaft that has sheared off?

Adriano brings a good point because if you did not run the timing cover then you must pull out the little spacers or get some to suit otherwise when you tighten the CAS against the bracket it will sit on an angle and too tight, almost certainly leading to failure.

Edited by GT-RZ
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted
Adriano brings a good point because if you did not run the timing cover then you must pull out the little spacers or get some to suit otherwise when you tighten the CAS against the bracket it will sit on an angle and too tight, almost certainly leading to failure.

Yeah I found that out the hard way...took me 2 days to figure out why the car wouldnt start lol

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
I think he is saying the end of the camshaft that mates against the CAS shaft has sheared off! If this is the case then your up for a new Camshaft for sure. Are you sure it's not the end of the CAS shaft that has sheared off?

Adriano brings a good point because if you did not run the timing cover then you must pull out the little spacers or get some to suit otherwise when you tighten the CAS against the bracket it will sit on an angle and too tight, almost certainly leading to failure.

no he's not...its just a case of looking in and seeing where the tab was and lining the CAS up before installing. I had no locator in my Tomei 260's for years and never had too much trouble installing the CAS in the right position.

the factory rubber ring with the spacers must be used if not running a cover, they are available from Nissan.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I think he is saying the end of the camshaft that mates against the CAS shaft has sheared off! If this is the case then your up for a new Camshaft for sure. Are you sure it's not the end of the CAS shaft that has sheared off?

Adriano brings a good point because if you did not run the timing cover then you must pull out the little spacers or get some to suit otherwise when you tighten the CAS against the bracket it will sit on an angle and too tight, almost certainly leading to failure.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. The CAS has a two key drive. One is a D drive (which is what snaps when you do what he did, and the other is a star. You can still mount the CAS in place on the star drive and it will happily function correctly.

Unless, of course, he has also snapped the star drive off as well but I've never seen anyone do that before.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
no he's not...its just a case of looking in and seeing where the tab was and lining the CAS up before installing. I had no locator in my Tomei 260's for years and never had too much trouble installing the CAS in the right position.

the factory rubber ring with the spacers must be used if not running a cover, they are available from Nissan.

Morning Paul.....+1

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

Which is why i asked him to make sure what was broken. I have seen sheared gear teeth before from someone who did exactly the above. the bearings in the CAS locked and it went to sh*t from there.

If the CAS was installed and running then clearly the gears were engaged. Unless the CAS was literally out so far only the locator was engaged which would be something hard to miss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...