Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi out there, does anyone know what an rb 26 is meant to idle at standard, i have an arc air box and cat back exhaust.

it idles around 1050-1100

from past experience all my cars being manual have sat around 800 or so.

does anyone know how to adjust the idle on an rb26?

do you adjust the throttle bodie linkage near the accelerator cable or something else?

any info would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280946-rb26-standard-idle/
Share on other sites

Hi out there, does anyone know what an rb 26 is meant to idle at standard, i have an arc air box and cat back exhaust.

it idles around 1050-1100

from past experience all my cars being manual have sat around 800 or so.

does anyone know how to adjust the idle on an rb26?

do you adjust the throttle bodie linkage near the accelerator cable or something else?

any info would be much appreciated.

Hi mate! On the RB26 you have three methods of adjusting ur idle speed: ECU (aftermarket), throttle linkage and AAC Valve. The main place to adjust ur idle would be on the AAC valve located under ur intake plenum. This is an adjustable screw, mid section under side of plenum facing forward. If you screw this screw clockwise, ur idle speed will decrease, anti clock wise and ur idle speed will increase. I personally would not adjust ur throttle linkage, leave it be! RB26's are happy to idle around 650 - 800 RPM. I have a Nissan service information sticker under 33 vspec bonnet and it stipulates idle RPM to be 650. Hope this helps u out!

Hi mate! On the RB26 you have three methods of adjusting ur idle speed: ECU (aftermarket), throttle linkage and AAC Valve. The main place to adjust ur idle would be on the AAC valve located under ur intake plenum. This is an adjustable screw, mid section under side of plenum facing forward. If you screw this screw clockwise, ur idle speed will decrease, anti clock wise and ur idle speed will increase. I personally would not adjust ur throttle linkage, leave it be! RB26's are happy to idle around 650 - 800 RPM. I have a Nissan service information sticker under 33 vspec bonnet and it stipulates idle RPM to be 650. Hope this helps u out!

yup, that is by far the best and easiest way to ajust the idle

when your ajusting it, start the engine, get a long screwdriver, turn the screw, after each ajustments wait about 10~15 senconds for the idle speed to settle

yup, that is by far the best and easiest way to ajust the idle

when your ajusting it, start the engine, get a long screwdriver, turn the screw, after each ajustments wait about 10~15 senconds for the idle speed to settle

thanks heaps guys eally appreciate your info. :)

  • 7 years later...

a very common cause of high idle for the rb26 is some plonka has cleaned inside the throttle bodies.

they have a factory film, clean that off and you get a 1100-1200 idle. it wont be helped by the idle screw either so crack the plenum off and check that also.

6 hours ago, powerdbygarrett said:

Hate to bring up an old thread but can someone confirm the location of the screw? 

Is it one of these guys? 

Thanks!

unnamed (1).jpg

Wow a car that still has HICAS!

Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted.

If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally

On 11/6/2016 at 11:20 PM, GH05T said:

a very common cause of high idle for the rb26 is some plonka has cleaned inside the throttle bodies.

they have a factory film, clean that off and you get a 1100-1200 idle. it wont be helped by the idle screw either so crack the plenum off and check that also.

This is the way I purchased the car. I am not sure how the idle was with the previous owner. If the film has been cleaned off, what would be the solutution?

On 11/7/2016 at 1:56 AM, Duncan said:

Wow a car that still has HICAS!

Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted.

If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally

The car seems pretty standard, not really modded. just basic stuff. I will check for vacuum leaks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...