Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why would you have both?? If you're talking about a pod filter followed by a panel boxed filter.. then there's no point except for induction sound. Having both would just add restriction to your airflow and make performance worse. Unless you're driving through a dust storm every day of the week I fail to see any benefit or reason. It's either one or the other mate.

this is my setup on my 34

OK, I see a heat shielded pod. Where's the panel filter in that pic?

but i havent seen anyone talking about having both? can it be done?

I know its not "legal' but im talking performace wise, not legality.

It can be done, but from a performance perspective its pointless. You're just adding needless complexity and you won't see any more airflow.

If you run the pod and panel in series, it just adds an intake restriction because the engine has to suck air through 2 filters. A single filter will provide enough filtration so the resistance decreases performance but doesn't add any safety.

If you run them in parallel (so you use a Y pipe to join the 2 together) then your total airflow is still restricted by the size of the intake pipe downwind of the Y pipe. You could just have 1 pipe of that diameter and see the same cross sectional flow. At the same time, 2 different airstreams merging creates turbulence, which is also bad for airflow.

Ah the good 'ole panel vs pod with a twist.

Basically in all the tests that have been done by various car magazines (both online and paper) the consensus is to get a high flowing non-oiled panel filter. Plus thats my opinion too. Feel free to flame away - honestly I don't care if you have a pod but for the love of god it better be shielded.

Autospeed has some nice articles about induction here:

Part 1: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1361/article.html

Part 2: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1370/article.html

Part 3: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1379/article.html

Part 4: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1829/article.html

Good stuff in there.

As to why not pod and panel? The question is why would you? More restrictive. No gains. More convoluted piping. Probably not that much noise (if your into that kind of thing). Costly (relatively).

Essentially a lot of work for no real gain. The question is why would you?

Edit: added article

Edited by R33_Dude

my car has a panel filter and a pod filter set up, but there is pannel filter mouth and the pod aswell which doesnt go through the filter lol i didnt do this it was like that when i got it, pretty weird, the pod sits down in the front bar and piping joins up behind the panel filter, which has a mouth sitting behind the headlight.

I am getting rid of the filter soon and having the pod sitting by itself down within the front bar tho,

Edited by r32na
do u mean something like this?

this is my setup on my 34

25072009415-1.jpg

That a Good Set-Up Aswell, This Is What Iv Fitted To My 33Gtr-Heaps Better Then A Panel Filter!

post-64108-1248924337_thumb.jpg

i would like to cover my pod up just for a more tidy look

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...