Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks.

So what exactly does it do?

Im looking at a motor that doesn't have this, is this bad.

Sorry for the stupid questions.

How much to replace? etc..

it gives spark to your coils, if it don't have this it wont run unless running a really good aftermarket computer that has this built into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281023-part-on-rb25det-motor/
Share on other sites

Found this, it explained a fair bit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ig...ule-t13496.html

My mate has a late series 2 skyline and his motor has the holes at the back of the cover where the module is suppose to be.(with brackets etc) he has the wires setup differently going across aswell. My 97 stagea has the unit and Im sure it has a S2 motor in it.

It doesnt seem to be doing much.

Is this ok. Should he go looking for a replacement?

no... I don't think so.

I'm Guessing your stag has an earlier model 33 RB25DET spec engine in it. (96 model?)

Most S1 Stag's have S2 R33 engines in them - which do not have an ignitor module seperate - it is built into the coilpacks.

If he has a series 2 R33 then he doesn;t need one... he should just have the holes

Check FAST for your relative part numbers - or alternatively.. ahve a search for Splitfires.. you will notice that there are different splitfire partcodes for different 33 spec RB25DET's... one for the old model and one for the new.

Found this, it explained a fair bit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ig...ule-t13496.html

My mate has a late series 2 skyline and his motor has the holes at the back of the cover where the module is suppose to be.(with brackets etc) he has the wires setup differently going across aswell. My 97 stagea has the unit and Im sure it has a S2 motor in it.

It doesnt seem to be doing much. What happens if it was removed?

Is this ok. Should he go looking for a replacement?

Edited by dirtyrs4
no... I don't think so.

I'm Guessing your stag has an earlier model 33 RB25DET spec engine in it. (96 model?)

Most S1 Stag's have S2 R33 engines in them - which do not have an ignitor module seperate - it is built into the coilpacks.

If he has a series 2 R33 then he doesn;t need one... he should just have the holes

Check FAST for your relative part numbers - or alternatively.. ahve a search for Splitfires.. you will notice that there are different splitfire partcodes for different 33 spec RB25DET's... one for the old model and one for the new.

Yeah you are right mines a late 96 and he has a series 1 and should have one.

The reason I ask is when I looked at it after he got it back from a service it looked like it was missing.

There is still part of the support bracket on the module that is just hanging there! Dodgy!

I told him to get back to the mechanics and get it fitted back on properly, maybe somewhere else.

The car seems fine. Would this have done damage in the long run?

umm not really right....if its a S1 motor and the ignitor is missing it will not run at all. So if its runnign (even badly) its not the problem

This is what is missing. And is a R33 S1.

The car starts rough but still runs fine.

But they have done some extra wiring between, I will post a picture.

I suppose a Splitfire super direct ignition system would be of benefit (upgraded coilpacks and module),

but he has been quoted $120 from a wrecker replacement and $215 (genuine) new from;

http://wolfems.cart.net.au/cat/31938.html

Any input would be appreciated.

Edited by dirtyrs4

When my mate got his 100k service they had the cover off to replace plugs, seals, belts etc. The incompetent f*#ckers looked around the workshop this morning but couldn't find it and then put up the argument it wasn't there.

Makes me laugh, because from research and what people have told me it is a part which is needed for a series 1 because these are built in with the series 2. The bracket and whole black box isn't there. It looks like they bypassed the module and have joined two connectors across the cover. One of the modules support brackets and screw is still attached to the cover. It is evidence of it originally being there.

I reckon they were in a rush and forgot to put it back on and then lost it. The wiring loom setup looks different as well. The car always starts rough but then runs fine at idle and on the road. Would this cause any long term damage? Still the question remains-should he go and replace the igniter module or upgrade to a better direct ignition system? It seems a lot of people do this, especially close to the 100k service mark. RB coil packs seem to be trouble, causing loss of spark and misfire.

http://www.nengun.com/splitfire/super-dire...ignition-system

The reason I ask is I might look at doing this soon. Anyhow this is the wiring which seems to bypass the whole module-is this ok?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No-one in Aus/NZ would pay that much, because they remember when a turbo Skyline/Silvia was a cheap but awesome alternative to the mediocre shit sold here locally at the time. I'm sure over in USA there are enough trust fund kids who will have their R34 GTR, whatever the cost
    • I am stuck with enthusiast and very unhappy, even though Lumley, Shannons and Famous are all options, they all require a lock up garage, and my situation (basically a walled off compound from the street) is insufficient because the car is under a carport. I'm confident to resolve the situation I need to build a roller door with fascia in-front of my roller gate which is a solid opaque metal rolling gate. In any other universe moving the roller door 2 meters in-front of the garage door would still constitute the same amount of security but oh no. My insurance rates suck to the point of when I joined a market research for Enthusiast they were all surprised that I paid about 2-3x what other people were paying with Enthusiast when I asked them why their rates were so high. If I lie about having a garage, I save like $10 a month with enthusiast. (It's about $2600 p.a for 5000km of driving for a very unsustainable agreed value). Lumley has terrible reviews but @Duncan made me consider calling them when renew time came up - but their horrible reviews plus Christmas time made me... forget.
    • Not far. If all you want to do is know that they will reciprocate and move oil around a tiny bit, then a metre or so is all you need. Half metre fore and aft is enough.
    • That's the spirit!
    • It's fine. Basically if it has seized (eg due to moisture/rust in the bores) it will either break free on the starter or it won't turn....then you'll know it is freed up If it turns and doesn't start (reasonably likely) you will need to troubleshoot but most likely issue is a seized injector from moisture; same if it starts but missfires. Anything else could have happened (eg mice nibbling electricals) but the only way to find out is to close your eyes and hit the key I'd also change the fuel filter again after a few minutes of running as it may catch a heap of crap on first start
×
×
  • Create New...