Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item = Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch

Location = Melbourne

Condition = Great condition (used for 3months)

Type = Pull Type (Will fit R33-R34 GTRs + R34 GTTs and Late Model R32 GTRs

Capacity = 250 - 370rwkw

Price = 1100 ONO

Hey guys!

Recently pulled off my Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch off my r34 gtt due to updrading to a Twin Plate. this has defiently been a fantastic clutch. the perfect amount of play and engangement! very great feeling for the street and especially for those of you who like hard launches.

heres some info from nengun.

The EXEDY HYPER SINGLE CLUTCH is a new generation clutch set for light to moderately tuned vehicles up to 400 HP. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch is ideal for limited street driving and road circuit cars. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch has high torque capacity and a special lightweight design to reduce the clutch disc inertia.

LIGHT WEIGHT & LOW INERTIA DESIGN

- High friction coefficient, low wear, and a special heat resistant material (T5001) has been developed enabling clutch size to be reduced and have increased durability.

- Improved durability by strong small damper disc, especially re-designed for hyper single clutch.

- Disc inertia level is less than OEM clutch for improved shift response for fast gear changes, especially in racing applications.

DIAPHRAM SPRING TECHNOLOGY FOR LONG LIFE & HIGH EFFICIENCY

- Leading technology of clutch diaphragm spring and original design superior material using a special heat treatment process, which will result in a high durability level, and prevent heat deflection, loss of clamp load, and heavy pedal effort.

- Long life and improved clutch operation due to original design for hyper single clutch.

STRAP DRIVE TYPE PRESSURE PLATE FUNCTION

- Improved clutch disengagement. (Pressure plate is forcibly separated from facing surface by strap plate)

- Prevent no-disengagement problem caused by the heat deformation of pressure plate.

- Prevent the peculiar rattle noise of lug drive type clutch.

for those of you who are interested you can PM me here or please email me at "[email protected]"

alternatively my number is 0421691338.

THANKS!!!

35860fullhypersingle223.th.jpg

Edited by Jap_Muscle
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...