Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As thread title suggests im wondering on the different engines in the s1 stags.... Mines a a '97 RS4 V (well call this car A) A mates (stagharts) has a '98 RS4V Dayz (car B) Both are series ones. Im aware that his is a later model than mine and would have been produced just before the s2's were starting to get pumped out...

Now today after doing some work on his car I've noticed a few things, His CAS is different to mine and he has a nipple on his plenum that I dont have. Is their such thing as a Series 1 RB25DET and a Series 2 RB25DET? If so what are the differences?

When i upped the boost on mine to 12psi with no computer or piggbacks it didnt rich and retard or miss at all. However stagharts car doesnt want to get much over 10psi and feels to be missing or R & Ring at full throttle and full boost. His coils are in OK condition with some evidence of them leaking spark. Will try my splitfires in their soon to see if it removes the jolting/miss feeling on WOT.

Car A:

post-40162-1248923249_thumb.jpg

post-40162-1248923309_thumb.jpg

Car B:

post-40162-1248923179_thumb.jpg

post-40162-1248923218_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281219-sereis-1-stagea-engine-variants/
Share on other sites

Also check ecu. Most common ecu for S1 is OV300 with less common 301 or 310 but I have heard suggestions that some S1 non neo have had the S2 type computer.

BTW n/a cars (rare in Aus I know) got the neo engine in the later S1 cars ... I used to have a 1997 n/a neo engined S1.

  • 1 month later...

Checked the ECU and build date out of interest (My car is "Car B"), ECU is a OV310 model, build date 02/98... It seems that there are implications in having the rarer OV310 when thinking about an aftermarket ecu, Duncan had to get a custom loom made up to fit a PFC to his late model S1 Stag.

Edited by stageaharts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few more recent pics
    • full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...