Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My brother just recently got an r33 up in qld (highly modified), being him not very understanding towards modified sports cars are like, he started up from where he bought it, drove about 30 secs, gave it a hit in first (not to redline), changed to second gave it another hit then..... whrrrrr.... power started to cut then stall. So he tried to start it again, it cranks but dosent kick, so his mate gave it a go and cranked, cranked, he gave it a little gas, crank then..... BANG! a loud backfire like shotgun cameout. Car wont start still. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

P.S Fuel pumps still prime

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281220-it-wont-kick-over/
Share on other sites

Yeah i think it might be an ignition issue as well.

Nope its a microtech

AFM doesn't get referenced in PFC or std ECU on crank so it should start then stop if there where AFM issues.

To me it sounds more like an ignition issue - as the bang is usually the spark plug firing with the exhuast vavle open.

Let me guess - haltech ECU?

a blown intercooler pipe will not stop the car from running, it will only stall the car when under boost. I know this because it has happened to me numerous times before. The car will drive fine if you baby it. However, I think the problem with your situation is a bit more extensive than a loose cooler pipe. You going to have to search for any obvious problems and if you cant find anything then I would probably not stuff around and take it to a mechanic to get checked out.

its ignition, the bang is unburnt fuel in the exhaust exploding, remove all coil packs and plugs, check plug tips for fouling, sthey should be a dark grey colour,

check all connections on coil loom including earth. check for out put from cas and ignitor while cranking engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...