Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey eric

doing the same thing as you actually.

After alot of research i found that you wont notice any difference between RDA and DBA on the street. The RDA are a softer disc so they will wear quicker, however, they are alot cheaper. As you would of seen on the rda group buy. So its probably best bang for buck if you went with the RDA discs. This, in the end, is what i chose and have just ordered with the RDA group buy batch 49.

I got told the best combo if what your doing is mainly street driving is RDA slotted with green stuff pad. Which is a less aggresive pad so it wont eat away at the rotors. They are more than capable of a few track days here and there. But if your after a tracked only car the you would have to go red/yellow which are made from harder compounds.

Just my 2cents

hope it help eric.

Price wise with slotted discs, DBA (something like $480 for fronts to suit my car) are close to twice as much as the RDA equivelent ($270 for fronts to suit my car). It's really up to you if you want to pay nearly twice as much for virtually the same product. $500 (for my car) is in Endless (slotted) front rotor territory imported from Japan.. so if you were willing to pay that much I would choose Endless over DBA.

i used the DBA series 4000 slotted rotors last year for track/street duty, and i had no problems, they dissipate their heat pretty well

as long as you don't use cross-drilled rotors, and over-heat them there's no problems

I did a brake upgrade with RDA slotted discs up front with green stuff pads and I think there pretty good. Ive had them for about two months now. Also worth doing is putting some good brake fluid, dot 5.1 is what I put. And I also put adr braided brake lines all round.

If you get the RDA slotted discs its probably better spending the extra money on the gold something discs coz there apparantly more rust resistant. Looks better under the rims.

DBA a few years ago, I had issues with them crazing. Now they seem to be better quality. Last set I used were 4000 slotted's with 400deg, then 500deg pads and they held up well on two trackdays as well as daily duties. Still A1 when I pulled em off. Pulled em off because I upgraded to a larger rotor setup.

RDA are good for street, but after seeing how they perform on a mates car, I wouldn't track day them.

Stay away from bendix ultimates, they chew your rotors a fair bit.

Stock nissan drilled discs I bought for $160 each from nissan were okay for light street duty, but cracked over time running ultimates, couldn't take the heat!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...