Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok not sure if this is the right section

but i have a 33 GTS-t and basicly the gearbox is very clunky to change gears and most times it will grind when you shift between 4th and 5th and sometimes will not let me into second. Ive used different gear oils and it improved for a bit then just went back to how it was

the question is should i get it rebuilt? or replace it with another box?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/
Share on other sites

yeah I am currently trying to make a decision simaliar to this one except I have an R32 and it's making a bit of power and the RB20DET box is starting to suffer, I can't get into second after 4000rpm and the rest of the shifts are so shoddy. I am looking at replacing my RB20 box with an RB25 box because they are so much stronger rather than rebuilding mine. Since you already have a decently strong gear box I would just keep it and get it rebuilt. Your only problem is the syncros by the sounds of it, and for these to get rebuilt you are probably only looking at around $600. Rather than trying to get a whole new box sourced and fitted which potentially could have the same problem or even worse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-585573
Share on other sites

Only $600 to get new synchros put in?! Where where!!!

Yeah, most R33 boxes are crunchy/grindy/notchy. It is a tough box though, mine has been the same ever since I got it but it's still fine. It's actually pretty smooth once it warms up, except the occasional 4th->5th crunch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-586111
Share on other sites

BelGarion, you might recall I was talking to you about this subject when we went on the Mt Glorious cruise recently....

I've posted on this elsewhere previously...

My gearbox was also a bit notchy after a rebuild, and from various enquiries, I've ascertained that a lot of gearboxes in many makes are likewise notchy after re-builds - it's just one of those things...

Basically... Redine Lightweight Shockproof is a 80w/120 oil. I decided as an alternative to use Oil Stabiliser as a buffer combined with Castrol VMX80 at a concentration of 30%. I found this a little too viscous in winter on my re-built box and probably a 20% concentration would be better, but it might be just right on a worn box - there are various reccomendations on the side of the bottle.

Some other members raised questions about oil stabiliser's quality, and there are two websites in which it's lubricicity and foaming characteristics are questioned in a Timkin test and Foaming test respectively, but the methodology of those tests is irrelevant in that it is an ADDITIVE not a substitute, and the foaming is due to it's adhesive qualities.

The crux of the matter is that it greatly improves shift quality and quietens the box... all for a $20 fix, and that HAS to be a good thing.

The only qualification to what I've done is that I'd probably use a higher quality base oil as a mixer, say, a fully syn. Come round to my place and take my car for a thrash and see how well it shifts...

Come to think of it, don't - I've seen you drive!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-586383
Share on other sites

Gee wouldn't wont a box to go. Mine is a bit clunky 1st to 2nd, but what you'd expect given short Jap traffic, 1st to 2nd all time, lucky if they even get into 3rd.

But if you were to rebuild a manual box, any ideas as to the total drive in drive out costs, assuming 100% stock rebuild.

Another question, is can you put in double synchros from 1st gear to 2nd, like Hondas new Integra Type R?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-586466
Share on other sites

While browsing around, I noticed that Unique Autosports offers it for $2600 for a full strengthened rebuild. I think you could probably track down a 2nd hand box for less than that price, but if its stronger....

see here:

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/skyline_gt...ission_mods.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-586469
Share on other sites

09one_32 Apparently different year boxes in the r33's are different sizes. I have a 95 r33 rb25det engine and box in my commy and found out that the imput and output shafts are lager than earlier models. Before the conversion was running an rb20turbo box behind the 3ltr after conversion couldn't find yoke for the rb25 box so thought put rb20box on instead apparently not compatible so I think that the r33box behind the rb20 would also not be compatible, don't actually know just what has happened to me. Am selling my box though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-586742
Share on other sites

thanks for the replys,

i havent used redline gear oil, i am using a relativly thin gear oil atm (cant remember the figures) while this helped for a while it is slowly becoming a problem again,

looks like ill just have to put up with cringing everytime i go for 5th, least till i got a spair 2k kickin round for a box rebuild

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-587331
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 2fardown

I had a gearbox recon under warranty.  New synchros and bearings $1900 all up.

Thats pretty expensive if you didnt get bigger syncro's and bigger input shaft and so on.

Im pulling my box out next week for an inspection, I'l get back to you guys on how much it would cost for a full rebuild. If i remember off the top of my head its $900 for new syncros and clutster gears.

Harun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28134-r33-gearboxes/#findComment-587342
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...