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R33 Gearboxes

BelGarion
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BelGarion Grand Master

BelGarion

Posted
Posted

ok not sure if this is the right section

but i have a 33 GTS-t and basicly the gearbox is very clunky to change gears and most times it will grind when you shift between 4th and 5th and sometimes will not let me into second. Ive used different gear oils and it improved for a bit then just went back to how it was

the question is should i get it rebuilt? or replace it with another box?

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09ONE_32 Collaborator

09ONE_32

Posted
Posted

yeah I am currently trying to make a decision simaliar to this one except I have an R32 and it's making a bit of power and the RB20DET box is starting to suffer, I can't get into second after 4000rpm and the rest of the shifts are so shoddy. I am looking at replacing my RB20 box with an RB25 box because they are so much stronger rather than rebuilding mine. Since you already have a decently strong gear box I would just keep it and get it rebuilt. Your only problem is the syncros by the sounds of it, and for these to get rebuilt you are probably only looking at around $600. Rather than trying to get a whole new box sourced and fitted which potentially could have the same problem or even worse.

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JimX Grand Master

JimX

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Only $600 to get new synchros put in?! Where where!!!

Yeah, most R33 boxes are crunchy/grindy/notchy. It is a tough box though, mine has been the same ever since I got it but it's still fine. It's actually pretty smooth once it warms up, except the occasional 4th->5th crunch.

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BuzLightyear Enthusiast

BuzLightyear

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BelGarion, you might recall I was talking to you about this subject when we went on the Mt Glorious cruise recently....

I've posted on this elsewhere previously...

My gearbox was also a bit notchy after a rebuild, and from various enquiries, I've ascertained that a lot of gearboxes in many makes are likewise notchy after re-builds - it's just one of those things...

Basically... Redine Lightweight Shockproof is a 80w/120 oil. I decided as an alternative to use Oil Stabiliser as a buffer combined with Castrol VMX80 at a concentration of 30%. I found this a little too viscous in winter on my re-built box and probably a 20% concentration would be better, but it might be just right on a worn box - there are various reccomendations on the side of the bottle.

Some other members raised questions about oil stabiliser's quality, and there are two websites in which it's lubricicity and foaming characteristics are questioned in a Timkin test and Foaming test respectively, but the methodology of those tests is irrelevant in that it is an ADDITIVE not a substitute, and the foaming is due to it's adhesive qualities.

The crux of the matter is that it greatly improves shift quality and quietens the box... all for a $20 fix, and that HAS to be a good thing.

The only qualification to what I've done is that I'd probably use a higher quality base oil as a mixer, say, a fully syn. Come round to my place and take my car for a thrash and see how well it shifts...

Come to think of it, don't - I've seen you drive!

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Boost King Contributor

Boost King

Posted
Posted

Gee wouldn't wont a box to go. Mine is a bit clunky 1st to 2nd, but what you'd expect given short Jap traffic, 1st to 2nd all time, lucky if they even get into 3rd.

But if you were to rebuild a manual box, any ideas as to the total drive in drive out costs, assuming 100% stock rebuild.

Another question, is can you put in double synchros from 1st gear to 2nd, like Hondas new Integra Type R?

Thanks

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predator Grand Master

predator

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Posted

While browsing around, I noticed that Unique Autosports offers it for $2600 for a full strengthened rebuild. I think you could probably track down a 2nd hand box for less than that price, but if its stronger....

see here:

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/skyline_gt...ission_mods.htm

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David Alchin Explorer

David Alchin

Posted
Posted

09one_32 Apparently different year boxes in the r33's are different sizes. I have a 95 r33 rb25det engine and box in my commy and found out that the imput and output shafts are lager than earlier models. Before the conversion was running an rb20turbo box behind the 3ltr after conversion couldn't find yoke for the rb25 box so thought put rb20box on instead apparently not compatible so I think that the r33box behind the rb20 would also not be compatible, don't actually know just what has happened to me. Am selling my box though.

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BelGarion Grand Master

BelGarion

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thanks for the replys,

i havent used redline gear oil, i am using a relativly thin gear oil atm (cant remember the figures) while this helped for a while it is slowly becoming a problem again,

looks like ill just have to put up with cringing everytime i go for 5th, least till i got a spair 2k kickin round for a box rebuild

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RNS11Z Experienced

RNS11Z

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by 2fardown

I had a gearbox recon under warranty.  New synchros and bearings $1900 all up.

Thats pretty expensive if you didnt get bigger syncro's and bigger input shaft and so on.

Im pulling my box out next week for an inspection, I'l get back to you guys on how much it would cost for a full rebuild. If i remember off the top of my head its $900 for new syncros and clutster gears.

Harun

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