Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A R33 25 should beat the R32 GTS off the mark thats assuming both are stock.

There is a bit of difference in performance, manual tends to be a bit quicker, although the auto tends to have more top end speed.

I have raced my R33 GTS25 both auto and manual, I managed a 16.4 pass over the 1/4 when auto, and after the conversion I ran a 16.0 ET. I have found the manual to be quicker off the mark, and trough the rev range, but have to watch for alot more wheel spin.

Also the manual tends to have a few more kw at the rear wheels, than it's auto counterpart. We gained 16rwkw when we did the conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28142-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-587443
Share on other sites

I prefer the R33 because it looks cooler, to me anyway. I find the 32's quite old now and even earlier S1 33's too. I have a S2 96 model GTS-t and I chose it because I loved the 33's rear end, and the front end was much more aggresive than the more rounded Series 1 front end. I never liked the look of the 34's when I first saw them, but now they have grown on me. But, my favourite is the R33 S2. I am not talking anything about performance etc, modded, just 100% stock factory models.

R32 Gts-t

R33 Gts-t

R34 Gtt

Thanks. Anyone else prefer Series 2 over Series 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28142-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-588340
Share on other sites

OK, auto goes ok, but i will look at a conversion in the future.

Overdrive is a option on the stick there is a button which gives you the top gear, with out it for example on a high way your 100km cruising speed will be at about 1000more rpm 3000 rather than 2000.

Two modes, snow and power. Snow limits your changes to a max of 4000rpm and most often less, and you start of in second gear (ie very slugish when tackling round aobuts)

Power mode allows the car to rev out to red line, and if you have it in normal and realy put the foot down quick it automaticly pops into power mode for you.

I picked my car up for $9400, in perfect condition, with 12months redgo. It was absolutely stock, factory radio etc etc, bar some 17" wheels. It had 69800kms when i got it, it was a total bargain, and beleive the fella who sold it to me realy underpriced the car, its only downside was the auto box. But it had the 2.5ltr engine so i thought that was a good compromise.

Hope that helps.

Ps i manual change the auto box quite alot and it seems to of been built for this coz it allows you to do it freely, with a simple push/pull it jumps into place with no worries, i use it for slowing down mostly then when stopped put it back into drive, coz the box changes for optimum performance on its own.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28142-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-589061
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...