Jump to content
SAU Community

Value Of R35 Engine And Transmission

[200]

By [200],
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

I have heard notional figures of AU$45k for the transmission and AU$75k for the engine (new prices) regardless of IF they can be purchased. Not that you would buy a crate motor for $75k (if you could) you would instead build something better etc.

If you have need of one and can get it cheap, grab it!

LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted
LSX-438, happen to know what a set of brakes are? Endless do a sweet adaptor kit to fit them to an older series R32/33/34 GTR.

If you were to ask for a complete OEM Nissan pad and rotor swap, i believe it will be in the vicinity of $8000 to $10,000 (and that doesnt include calipers nor lines). A full brake system would surely be $20k or more. This is for ordinary cast iron & cross drilled rotors mind you. However most people are buying aftermarket pads and rotors, which are about half these prices (and better spec too). If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

I wish...

I asked the question to see if it would be worth buying the R35 calipers themselves along with some Endless adaptors and some aftermarket discs. That would be a sweet stopping package for a 200kg lighter older series GTR (like mine).

Sorry, off topic.

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you were to ask for a complete OEM Nissan pad and rotor swap, i believe it will be in the vicinity of $8000 to $10,000 (and that doesnt include calipers nor lines). A full brake system would surely be $20k or more. This is for ordinary cast iron & cross drilled rotors mind you. However most people are buying aftermarket pads and rotors, which are about half these prices (and better spec too). If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

So if something like this was to be wrecked you might be interested in some parts?

gtr01.jpg

gtr02.jpg

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
  • Author
Posted
expensive.. weeeeee

Hey idiot, leave the stupid comments out of the thread - their not welcome here.

Judging by the posts it looks as though you're trying to get your post count up - typical. You're not contributing anything at all,

eg

Exhibit 1

Exhibit 2

Exhibit 3

:) :) :)

Don't reply with shit that doesn't contribute!!

nugzy31 Proficient

nugzy31

Posted
Posted

good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :P

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yes we looked at buying it must be 6 months ago or more now. hopefully it's been well stored and is still in good condition. I thought it sold on ebay US?

the stuff is only worth what someone is willing to pay. but consider you could buy a wreck in japan for around $40K (or less) and import that as a parts car and I'd consider very carefully before you spend any decent time or money bringing it out here hoping to get $100K+ for all the bits.... JDM wreck would also be more desirable as it's RHD. also, that car was pretty heavily crashed, there have been a few wrecks around with less damage going for pretty fair money.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted
good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :P

Oh my young friend.... if only you knew how difficult that task would be. You'd swear these 35's have a brain of their own, they know what you're doing to them, even without a battery in them! lol

beefcake4000 Apprentice

beefcake4000

Posted
Posted
good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :)

someone do that please!!!

i couldn't see that black wreck fetching more than 25k

are you in the states? if not id get someone who has half a mechanical brain to check it out, and id assume with the new GTR a multimeter would come in handy to check all the electrics.

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
  • Author
Posted
someone do that please!!!

i couldn't see that black wreck fetching more than 25k

are you in the states? if not id get someone who has half a mechanical brain to check it out, and id assume with the new GTR a multimeter would come in handy to check all the electrics.

Being done ...

I might just bring the engine, transmission and brakes over and see how things go from there. It's all that's really useful on the black one.

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

Dude. Just put a price on it & see what happens. No-one here will put there hand up unless you put your balls on the wall & see what happens. Looks like a gamble to me. These things are that fast I dont think it will be long before we see a few local ones on the market like that (of course I hope not - but lets wait & see)

20 years to catch up? Hmmm. Didnt see Porsche at Bathurst 20 years ago. (But I was too busy drag racing Holdens back then to care anyway!!!)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...