Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im gunna start practicing to weld today, ive got a new mask but old school type. Ive got a purple lense and a clear lense. I need to put them into the slot in the mask but dunno which one goes on the outside on which on the inside. Can someone please answer this really stupid question please...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281559-learning-to-weld/
Share on other sites

If its got the flip up lense then the dark one goes on the outside(flip up part) and the clear one on the inside but you should have a clear one on the front of the dark glass to protect it as well.

yeah as people said, purple to the outside if it is a flip up one. this is so when you aren't welding you can flip the front lense up and see what you are doing.

if it isn't a flip up one and is just one that you hold in front of your face then the clear would go on the outside to stop the purple lense getting damaged

there is a very small chance of that. would really depend on the brand of helmet. does the helmet have a slot to put a lense in behind the flip part? most i have seen do. and auto helmets are somewhat different. the permanent tint helmets are like putting on a pair of really dark lenses. they don't vary the amount of light that comes through to cater for different light conditions. it is always dark looking through them.

maybe post up some pics of the helmet and the lenses. or try fitting them and see how they sit. if the purple lense goes on and it doesn't look like the clear lense will fit on in front of it then that will be a pretty simple solution.

Thanks for the replys, after some research i found out the clear goes on the outside to protect the tint lense from being damaged by scratches and splatter. Sort of makes sence when i thought about it.

So i started mig welding yesterday, alot bloody harder then what i thought!!! Gota get some more scrap steel to practise on.

Thanks for the replys, after some research i found out the clear goes on the outside to protect the tint lense from being damaged by scratches and splatter. Sort of makes sence when i thought about it.

So i started mig welding yesterday, alot bloody harder then what i thought!!! Gota get some more scrap steel to practise on.

don't know how your welding but i give you a tip...with a mig u never pull back you go forwards makeing a C as you push the mig wire into the job

Edited by mr-r33

if you think welding with a mig is hard, try arc welding, LOL. i can weld with a mig ok, but arc/stick welding i suck at big time. but i think it may have had a little bit to do with the actual welder and power supply, but mostly that i suck at it, LOL.

  • 2 weeks later...

i miss metal fab - damn career change

really satisfying spending 2 days cutting out pieces of metal and weding them into something really massive.

the big tip of using is a mig is that the gas coming out helps form the weld, use it to push welds along and and into the join

setting the machine is the hard part, once that is right its just like highlighting - some people do the "c" some do constant loops, some do smooth non stop consecutive runs - penetration is the key

good luck with the welding, if you are like me you will love it.

Mig welding is easy once you know what your looking at.

I found it easier to learn on thicker pieces of steel as it wouldnt blow through if it got too hot. As said, penetration is the key, especially if your going to grind it off.

My tafe teacher always said to us as a 1st year apprentice.."if you think it looks good, then its probably not hot enough or your going to quick" On thin sheet metal a mig weld rarely looks nice.

  • 3 weeks later...

^ i wouldnt say they are best. they're good, but are most natably better when doing lots of little tacks. for normal welding, and even doing a few tacks, normal $12 screens are fine. i use a normal $12 BOC special all day, every day. i've used those full auto masks, and even the grand daddy $2,000 one with all the air venting/circulation. my preference for use is the same order i mentioned them in. i rkn those cheap shitheaps of the best thing out, very simple, light, cheap to replace when you smash them as i do (i'm both accident prone and an angry c*nt). the auto masks are good, but i find them a bit uncomfortable at times, and occasionally you have issues with the battery dying mid-weld. which leads to angry throwing of screen, and replacement (why cheap ones rule). the big daddy 2k one is a dead set c*nt. very heavy, and the hose down the back tugs on it if you try to lean the wrong way, left me with a really sore neck after an hour or so welding. not to mention the waste band only just fit me (i'm a big fat angry c*nt) and a couple of times i farted, and because that fan thing is around your waist, with the intake on your lower back, it sucked the smell straight in and blew it all over my face. ahhhh dick!

clear lense on the outside of the dark lense, to pretect it. if you flip it up to grind things, put a clear lense on both sides of the dark lense.

MIG welding, preperation is the key! machine settings are priority, cleanliness of the steel less, but still worth doing. depending on what material you have, fresh steel will usually have a layer of mill scale on it, alot of people dont bother with it, but it does make a fair difference to grind this back before you weld. as you weld over mill scale, it will sort of pop and crackle, and make the weld a bit shitty. for some reason most people ignore cleanliness of the steel unless they are TIGing Alu.

as for settings, you really need someone to be there and tell you what to do. as a starting point, run a weld using a slowish speed and try and keep your angles and speed consistent. if its really convex, your volts are too low or your amps (wire speed) is too high. if its really concave, volts too high, amps too low. you want it fairly flat, slightly convex, with good washing on either side (NOT undercut) google both and look at the difference.

listen! when its going right, you will hear a sort of crackling sound. imagine throwing a steak on a hot bbq, its a bit like that sizzling sound

other things to look for, depends on which brand/type of wire you use. i generally look for a nice bright silver colour of the weld itself, and a very fine layer a spatter that doesnt really stick to the parent metal, its like a fine layer of very heavy dust almost. dont worry about these too much though, get the shape of the weld right first.

Arc welding is actually a lot easier when you get some practice, because you can see the arc and steel melt. with the MIG, you can have your settings 'right' and have a beautiful smooth weld, thats even, but hasnt actually bitten in to the parent metal, its more or less sitting on top

Edited by VB-

the only problem i have with mig welding is the feed speed.. i like stick/tig because the pace is set by hand.. not by the wire feeder.. and my welds always look birdshitty because i start with the speed to high or not hot enough.. smart thing to do would be to find the same type of steel and practice first, but its always different.

hate the old school helmets, i like the ones you just hold in your hand and cover your face when needed... for me its easier as i have a small head (i have to wear boys hats) and the helmets are always too big.. and with the hand held, i rarely, if ever forget to hold it up... like the flip down lenses, its easy to forget they are up and start welding.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW, as well as a basic immobiliser/remote unlock (all basic units give you those 2 things), I would also install a 4g tracker in any car I cared about. Just hide it anywhere that won't be found in a rushed look and preferably get something with a built in battery backup so it stays online for a while when the battery is removed or flat While its not a car, when our car trailer was stolen in that den of crime Sydney about a decade ago, the cops were watching from the bloke's neighbour's lawn within about 2 hours until he started swapping the plates and putting up the gumtree ad.   Obviously it is still not undefeatable (eg parking it up for a few days somewhere without sky sight) but it greatly improves your chances of getting it back quickly and with less damage
    • Instead of magic keyphrases I wonder if something can be done with auto complete. Similar to how user names are handled already. When you type '@' and follow with letters, it'll search across all usernames. It might work to have the same for forum topics. Some key to trigger it and then text search across all thread names and it'll insert the name and URL when pressing enter.
    • Hmmm.... It's actually a bit weird. Here's the key bit of the diagram. I've circled what I'm pretty sure is the high beam indicator on the cluster. It appears to be just in parallel with one of the high beam lamp globes. Meaning, that however the high beams get lit, the indicator should also be lit. So there shouldn't be any difference between being on normal headlight main beam, or just flashing. I've followed the physical diagram (which is not so easily summarised in a single snip, so I didn't put it up here) and it agrees with what you can see here. If you struggle to follow this crap....let me explain some of it. I always struggle when I first look at this - even though I have looked specifically at this more than once in the past. We'll start with the flash. The flash is triggered by pulling the dip switch back, right? That is indicated on the diagram by the P position on the switch block labelled "Light SW", on the RHS of the snip. The bottom-right most terminal is connected to ground. That's that wire line going down to the bottom. The next terminal up is connected to the bottom terminal when the switch is pulled back. That provides ground to wire LA33, which is connected to the coil of the relay in the middle of the snip, "Headlamp relay (2M)". That relay always has power on the other side of the coil, from fuse #19 above it. When that relay is triggered, the two main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 above feed through the relay down onto wires LA31 and LA32, which are connected into the wires that go to the main beams, LA04 and LA06. The cluster indicator is connected to LA32 also. When the main beams are on normally, the light switch ("Light SW" again) is in the M position. Power comes in for the left and right sides on LA34 and LA36, via the other light switch (the one on the binnacle, called "Light SW (Instrument)" on the diagram). Obviously that switch needs to be in the 2nd position, because that's headlights. 1st position is parkers. The same main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 feed through that switch, out via LA34&36 to the stalk switch, and of out of the stalk switch via LA04 and LA06 to the headlamps. From there, it is no different to the flasher version. I really don't know why they bothered with the flash relay. They probably didn't want to add another contact in the stalk switch - but I'm damn sure that's what I would have done. Just reverse the order of power feed, so that it goes from the fuses to the stalk switch first, and add another contact for flashing. Everything would have worked just the same, but less complicated. /bitchrant
    • I think the solution Pac posted in the other thread is the way to go with the top screen; I have an ADM Q50 and I only use it for 2 things: 1. Reverse or front camera as triggered automatically by Reverse selection or the front sonars, and you can also call up the front left (or front) camera when parking by hitting the camera button on the centre console if necessary 2. Navigation. I can assure you that getting hold of a 10 year old nav system is utterly useless. The ADM system still has Inifiniti dealers marked (always give me a good laugh), is missing all new freeways, uses fixed speed by road type to determine arrival time, no traffic/re-routing, no speed cameras, no user reported cameras etc etc you get the idea So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function 1 above when required because it runs within the head unit. The other modern alternative is the latest version of the Tesla screen like this:  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007511322502.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.33cefEZifEZibq&algo_pvid=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461&algo_exp_id=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!2181.36!1265.19!!!9834.81!5704.20!%402101c71a17362022663526105e36d7!12000041077843545!sea!AU!163137612!X&curPageLogUid=F9811g8oqx5H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A But I haven't looked into whether it is compatible with Australian 4G bands yet so it may require a separate 4g dongle to provide data
    • In the 32 race car, I basically run what Gary told me and it is lovely across a range of conditions which is what I needed. I've got revalved bilsteins, adjustable solid sway bars, adjustable bushes all round. Just looking at Neil's R33 GTST and it has pretty much the same on board, Gary Bilsteins, Selby/whiteline sway bars.  Gary knows suspension generally and these cars specifically very well across street, street/track and track only use and gives a very well balanced set up. Just be aware his preference is for light springs and heavy sway bars, there is another school of though (eg MCA) that prefer lighter swaybars and heavier springs/shocks. The evo I raced had that setup and it was also very nice so there are multiple ways to skin cats.
×
×
  • Create New...