Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im gunna start practicing to weld today, ive got a new mask but old school type. Ive got a purple lense and a clear lense. I need to put them into the slot in the mask but dunno which one goes on the outside on which on the inside. Can someone please answer this really stupid question please...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281559-learning-to-weld/
Share on other sites

If its got the flip up lense then the dark one goes on the outside(flip up part) and the clear one on the inside but you should have a clear one on the front of the dark glass to protect it as well.

yeah as people said, purple to the outside if it is a flip up one. this is so when you aren't welding you can flip the front lense up and see what you are doing.

if it isn't a flip up one and is just one that you hold in front of your face then the clear would go on the outside to stop the purple lense getting damaged

there is a very small chance of that. would really depend on the brand of helmet. does the helmet have a slot to put a lense in behind the flip part? most i have seen do. and auto helmets are somewhat different. the permanent tint helmets are like putting on a pair of really dark lenses. they don't vary the amount of light that comes through to cater for different light conditions. it is always dark looking through them.

maybe post up some pics of the helmet and the lenses. or try fitting them and see how they sit. if the purple lense goes on and it doesn't look like the clear lense will fit on in front of it then that will be a pretty simple solution.

Thanks for the replys, after some research i found out the clear goes on the outside to protect the tint lense from being damaged by scratches and splatter. Sort of makes sence when i thought about it.

So i started mig welding yesterday, alot bloody harder then what i thought!!! Gota get some more scrap steel to practise on.

Thanks for the replys, after some research i found out the clear goes on the outside to protect the tint lense from being damaged by scratches and splatter. Sort of makes sence when i thought about it.

So i started mig welding yesterday, alot bloody harder then what i thought!!! Gota get some more scrap steel to practise on.

don't know how your welding but i give you a tip...with a mig u never pull back you go forwards makeing a C as you push the mig wire into the job

Edited by mr-r33

if you think welding with a mig is hard, try arc welding, LOL. i can weld with a mig ok, but arc/stick welding i suck at big time. but i think it may have had a little bit to do with the actual welder and power supply, but mostly that i suck at it, LOL.

  • 2 weeks later...

i miss metal fab - damn career change

really satisfying spending 2 days cutting out pieces of metal and weding them into something really massive.

the big tip of using is a mig is that the gas coming out helps form the weld, use it to push welds along and and into the join

setting the machine is the hard part, once that is right its just like highlighting - some people do the "c" some do constant loops, some do smooth non stop consecutive runs - penetration is the key

good luck with the welding, if you are like me you will love it.

Mig welding is easy once you know what your looking at.

I found it easier to learn on thicker pieces of steel as it wouldnt blow through if it got too hot. As said, penetration is the key, especially if your going to grind it off.

My tafe teacher always said to us as a 1st year apprentice.."if you think it looks good, then its probably not hot enough or your going to quick" On thin sheet metal a mig weld rarely looks nice.

  • 3 weeks later...

^ i wouldnt say they are best. they're good, but are most natably better when doing lots of little tacks. for normal welding, and even doing a few tacks, normal $12 screens are fine. i use a normal $12 BOC special all day, every day. i've used those full auto masks, and even the grand daddy $2,000 one with all the air venting/circulation. my preference for use is the same order i mentioned them in. i rkn those cheap shitheaps of the best thing out, very simple, light, cheap to replace when you smash them as i do (i'm both accident prone and an angry c*nt). the auto masks are good, but i find them a bit uncomfortable at times, and occasionally you have issues with the battery dying mid-weld. which leads to angry throwing of screen, and replacement (why cheap ones rule). the big daddy 2k one is a dead set c*nt. very heavy, and the hose down the back tugs on it if you try to lean the wrong way, left me with a really sore neck after an hour or so welding. not to mention the waste band only just fit me (i'm a big fat angry c*nt) and a couple of times i farted, and because that fan thing is around your waist, with the intake on your lower back, it sucked the smell straight in and blew it all over my face. ahhhh dick!

clear lense on the outside of the dark lense, to pretect it. if you flip it up to grind things, put a clear lense on both sides of the dark lense.

MIG welding, preperation is the key! machine settings are priority, cleanliness of the steel less, but still worth doing. depending on what material you have, fresh steel will usually have a layer of mill scale on it, alot of people dont bother with it, but it does make a fair difference to grind this back before you weld. as you weld over mill scale, it will sort of pop and crackle, and make the weld a bit shitty. for some reason most people ignore cleanliness of the steel unless they are TIGing Alu.

as for settings, you really need someone to be there and tell you what to do. as a starting point, run a weld using a slowish speed and try and keep your angles and speed consistent. if its really convex, your volts are too low or your amps (wire speed) is too high. if its really concave, volts too high, amps too low. you want it fairly flat, slightly convex, with good washing on either side (NOT undercut) google both and look at the difference.

listen! when its going right, you will hear a sort of crackling sound. imagine throwing a steak on a hot bbq, its a bit like that sizzling sound

other things to look for, depends on which brand/type of wire you use. i generally look for a nice bright silver colour of the weld itself, and a very fine layer a spatter that doesnt really stick to the parent metal, its like a fine layer of very heavy dust almost. dont worry about these too much though, get the shape of the weld right first.

Arc welding is actually a lot easier when you get some practice, because you can see the arc and steel melt. with the MIG, you can have your settings 'right' and have a beautiful smooth weld, thats even, but hasnt actually bitten in to the parent metal, its more or less sitting on top

Edited by VB-

the only problem i have with mig welding is the feed speed.. i like stick/tig because the pace is set by hand.. not by the wire feeder.. and my welds always look birdshitty because i start with the speed to high or not hot enough.. smart thing to do would be to find the same type of steel and practice first, but its always different.

hate the old school helmets, i like the ones you just hold in your hand and cover your face when needed... for me its easier as i have a small head (i have to wear boys hats) and the helmets are always too big.. and with the hand held, i rarely, if ever forget to hold it up... like the flip down lenses, its easy to forget they are up and start welding.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...