Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think people are having a go at you. They are just trying to work out your plans and why you are choosing some of the ideas u mention.

this is an idea of some costs...

oil pump (n1 is a bad idea, either JUN or external is best option) = $2000 minimum

clutch $2000

injectors $1000

oil cooler and lines $500+

external wastegates if they are needed $1200 for 2

manifolds $1000+

exhuast

intercooler piping

bigger sump

ati balancer $800 from memory

fuel regulator

cams

valve springs

retainers

plenum

fuel pumps

fuel lines

lines and fittings for turbos

coils

ecu

ignition setup

wiring

and on and on and on,

and thats not even the bottom end yet, seriously these things add up really quick.

then brakes and suspension, plus a heap of other things i havent thought of in the 20 secs ive thought about it

unfortunately alot of people think a $50 rb30 block, $2000 for forged rods and pistons, and a $2000 t04z turbo is all u need for 600rwhp+

Edited by unique1

Good to hear 'cause i dont wanna upset someone without knowing it :)

Ye, it really does add up fast ;) Ill ditch that N1 oilpump! Feels like i havent written as much info as i should have. Some things on the list i've already got such as clutch, ex. w/g's, oilcooler and ecu. We manufacture our own manifolds, exhausts and ic-piping so fortunatly that wont be too expensive. Also some somponents will be for dealer price due to having the shop, another positive inpact on the amount of money going in to this.

I think im starting to get some more understanding of the work needed to be done to reach that goal :devil: Since the start of the thread i've understood that i really should go with the Spool rods, ditch the larger turbos, same goes for the N! oilpump and also i should get me 2 extra Walbros or equivalent fuelpumps. Really good info since i have absolutely no experience of an RB30 build, just 'regular' builds with pieces you know will deliver.

I've read that the valves in the rb25 head is a bit small for higher amount of hp's but i've tried to put the foot down for myself somewhere but now it feels like i might aswell keep building the engine with a fully upgraded head as far as cams, valves, springs, lifters and P & P goes. My plan was to keep it stock except for new valvesprings to keep them from floating but from what i understand that will limit me to a maximum of about 600 hp?

Hvae you thought about using a rb26 head? It will give you a much better base to start off with, with its solid lifters etc

Thanks, it would really give me a good start and compared to what i need to spend on the RB25 head to get there :thumbsup: Have tried to find one but they dont grow on trees around here up north, hopefully i can find one on Ebay or Yahoo auctons :)

Edited by brother_david

If i was going to sink heavy lumps of money into an engine, I would be using the RB26 head. There is plenty of parts for larger HP figures, such as cams, valve springs, manifolds. etc. Sure, there are plenty of people that will say that there is ample amount of RB25 gear.. but really start looking for the hard core parts for making bulk horsepower and the amount of RB25 stuff starts to get thin.. In my opinion anyway! I'm sure somebody will prove me wrong..

but either way.. ur up for some fun and hours of head scratching!

Welcome to the land of RB maddness....

Fark - I think I have spent close to $16k Aus on my 26/30 and it still needs more work.

You have to count on lots happening:

The 26 head I bought that was corroded and useless

The oil pump that had a slight ding in it, that we ultimately decided to bin and get another N1 just so as not to take chances.

New thottle sensor, because it now wont hold a steady idle....

New clutch, as mine now slips past 350RWKW

The list goes on,

I think from my experience and the experience of those that know, there are two ways to build a new engine, the cheap way or the right way

Thanks :P

I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like ;)

Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle :P

I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp.

Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference?

Thanks :)

I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like :rant:

Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle :)

I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp.

Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference?

lower compression ratio is better for higher boost, also, make sure you put a collar on the crank!

Thanks :)

I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like :rant:

Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle :)

I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp.

Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference?

hang on a minute, ur going to bore the block before you get the pistons? :)

Thats what i think to, so i leans towards getting the 8.5:1 pistons! The nice gentlemen sending me the block also provided me with the crank collar so i wont have to buy one otherwise i guess i could kiss my engine goodbye :)

Although its temping ill try to wait with the pistons until the block is checked to see that 86.5mm are good to go, then ill order them and send them to the company doing the bore to have them measuring it up to be sure :rant:

Thats what i think to, so i leans towards getting the 8.5:1 pistons! The nice gentlemen sending me the block also provided me with the crank collar so i wont have to buy one otherwise i guess i could kiss my engine goodbye :)

Although its temping ill try to wait with the pistons until the block is checked to see that 86.5mm are good to go, then ill order them and send them to the company doing the bore to have them measuring it up to be sure :rant:

Make sure that when they bore its torque plated.

BTW the crank collar is the cheap part - machining it onto the end of the crank takes the time and money (within reason).

I went for the CP with 20 thou overbore. With the metal head gasket on, makes about 8.7:1, with a single GT3540 on it pulls nice and strong from down low to 4k............... and then my clutch slips.

Getting the power once built is just a matter of tuning (easier said than done), its the various build issues that took the time, diagnosing those is still the hard part rather than building in big power.

If you talk sweetly to some of the big hitters on here, I'm sure they could help you get a 'parts list' going. Not a wish list, but bits that you NEED to use to make power.

A PM to somebody like RIPS would not go astray either! What doesn't he know...?

Dont take one persons idea's as gold, there are many guys on here who have spent big $$ to gain big HP. I'm sure some would happily tell you of the pitfalls!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...