unique1 Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) I dont think people are having a go at you. They are just trying to work out your plans and why you are choosing some of the ideas u mention. this is an idea of some costs... oil pump (n1 is a bad idea, either JUN or external is best option) = $2000 minimum clutch $2000 injectors $1000 oil cooler and lines $500+ external wastegates if they are needed $1200 for 2 manifolds $1000+ exhuast intercooler piping bigger sump ati balancer $800 from memory fuel regulator cams valve springs retainers plenum fuel pumps fuel lines lines and fittings for turbos coils ecu ignition setup wiring and on and on and on, and thats not even the bottom end yet, seriously these things add up really quick. then brakes and suspension, plus a heap of other things i havent thought of in the 20 secs ive thought about it unfortunately alot of people think a $50 rb30 block, $2000 for forged rods and pistons, and a $2000 t04z turbo is all u need for 600rwhp+ Edited August 3, 2009 by unique1 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4747927 Share on other sites More sharing options...
brother_david Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Good to hear 'cause i dont wanna upset someone without knowing it Ye, it really does add up fast Ill ditch that N1 oilpump! Feels like i havent written as much info as i should have. Some things on the list i've already got such as clutch, ex. w/g's, oilcooler and ecu. We manufacture our own manifolds, exhausts and ic-piping so fortunatly that wont be too expensive. Also some somponents will be for dealer price due to having the shop, another positive inpact on the amount of money going in to this. I think im starting to get some more understanding of the work needed to be done to reach that goal Since the start of the thread i've understood that i really should go with the Spool rods, ditch the larger turbos, same goes for the N! oilpump and also i should get me 2 extra Walbros or equivalent fuelpumps. Really good info since i have absolutely no experience of an RB30 build, just 'regular' builds with pieces you know will deliver. I've read that the valves in the rb25 head is a bit small for higher amount of hp's but i've tried to put the foot down for myself somewhere but now it feels like i might aswell keep building the engine with a fully upgraded head as far as cams, valves, springs, lifters and P & P goes. My plan was to keep it stock except for new valvesprings to keep them from floating but from what i understand that will limit me to a maximum of about 600 hp? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4747979 Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebra Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Hvae you thought about using a rb26 head? It will give you a much better base to start off with, with its solid lifters etc Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4748131 Share on other sites More sharing options...
brother_david Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) Hvae you thought about using a rb26 head? It will give you a much better base to start off with, with its solid lifters etc Thanks, it would really give me a good start and compared to what i need to spend on the RB25 head to get there Have tried to find one but they dont grow on trees around here up north, hopefully i can find one on Ebay or Yahoo auctons Edited August 4, 2009 by brother_david Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4749112 Share on other sites More sharing options...
psi Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 If i was going to sink heavy lumps of money into an engine, I would be using the RB26 head. There is plenty of parts for larger HP figures, such as cams, valve springs, manifolds. etc. Sure, there are plenty of people that will say that there is ample amount of RB25 gear.. but really start looking for the hard core parts for making bulk horsepower and the amount of RB25 stuff starts to get thin.. In my opinion anyway! I'm sure somebody will prove me wrong.. but either way.. ur up for some fun and hours of head scratching! Welcome to the land of RB maddness.... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4750659 Share on other sites More sharing options...
stomper Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Fark - I think I have spent close to $16k Aus on my 26/30 and it still needs more work. You have to count on lots happening: The 26 head I bought that was corroded and useless The oil pump that had a slight ding in it, that we ultimately decided to bin and get another N1 just so as not to take chances. New thottle sensor, because it now wont hold a steady idle.... New clutch, as mine now slips past 350RWKW The list goes on, I think from my experience and the experience of those that know, there are two ways to build a new engine, the cheap way or the right way Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4750975 Share on other sites More sharing options...
brother_david Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp. Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4751062 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jangles Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp. Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference? lower compression ratio is better for higher boost, also, make sure you put a collar on the crank! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4751831 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp. Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference? hang on a minute, ur going to bore the block before you get the pistons? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4751866 Share on other sites More sharing options...
brother_david Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thats what i think to, so i leans towards getting the 8.5:1 pistons! The nice gentlemen sending me the block also provided me with the crank collar so i wont have to buy one otherwise i guess i could kiss my engine goodbye Although its temping ill try to wait with the pistons until the block is checked to see that 86.5mm are good to go, then ill order them and send them to the company doing the bore to have them measuring it up to be sure Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4752044 Share on other sites More sharing options...
stomper Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thats what i think to, so i leans towards getting the 8.5:1 pistons! The nice gentlemen sending me the block also provided me with the crank collar so i wont have to buy one otherwise i guess i could kiss my engine goodbye Although its temping ill try to wait with the pistons until the block is checked to see that 86.5mm are good to go, then ill order them and send them to the company doing the bore to have them measuring it up to be sure Make sure that when they bore its torque plated. BTW the crank collar is the cheap part - machining it onto the end of the crank takes the time and money (within reason). I went for the CP with 20 thou overbore. With the metal head gasket on, makes about 8.7:1, with a single GT3540 on it pulls nice and strong from down low to 4k............... and then my clutch slips. Getting the power once built is just a matter of tuning (easier said than done), its the various build issues that took the time, diagnosing those is still the hard part rather than building in big power. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4752171 Share on other sites More sharing options...
psi Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 If you talk sweetly to some of the big hitters on here, I'm sure they could help you get a 'parts list' going. Not a wish list, but bits that you NEED to use to make power. A PM to somebody like RIPS would not go astray either! What doesn't he know...? Dont take one persons idea's as gold, there are many guys on here who have spent big $$ to gain big HP. I'm sure some would happily tell you of the pitfalls! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281631-will-this-be-a-decent-setup/page/2/#findComment-4764613 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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