Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's what you call good quality safety gear! But that can't be me, because I notice he remembered to put on his safety goggles where as I would have conveniently left them on top of the car and forgotten them. But that's another emergency room story.

The real problem is that now I'm in Melbourne it's damn cold (that's saying a lot as I work in shorts year round in Sydney) and I've had to start wearing pants when working my usual late night last minute jobs. So of course I'm welding and instead of dropping a little spot of weld on to my bare skin and causing a small little burn that's fixed with a lot of expletives, it instead gets logged in my coveralls, catches fire and before I notice it I've got a 2 inch round section of burnt polyester embedded in my skin!

I really should be working for ACCC in their product safety section, defining common sense safety practices, but again that's a whole other story...

Gary,

is there anything that can be done to fix this...

But the standard rear geometry in an R32 is not the best. The anti squat built into the lower control arm pivot points for example. Nisan recognised this, that's why R33's and R34 have far superior rear geometry

And also what can be done to fix the front, or do you jsut need to keep replacing the bushes?

I really dont want to change to a 34 to fix these issues

Thanks mate

Duncan covered the rear quite well. For the front I simply redrill the holes in the brackets for the upper control arm inner pivot to remove the twist. From memory the rear hole needs to be further down, lower in the bracket, by around 15 mm. To work out where to redrill the hole I do a dummy assembly (no spring or shock installed and at the correct ride height) and then put the front bolt into the upper control arm via the standard hole. Then it's obvious where the rear hole needs to be drilled.

Cheers

Gary

  • 12 years later...
On 8/13/2009 at 8:35 AM, djr81 said:

Here are a couple of drawings and three photos.

The first shows what Nismo do to the standard upper link bracket to allow for more castor/camber. Essentially it is a stock component but with the holes drilled differently - the front moved closer to the centreline of the car & the rear lower. Thus the upper link is rotated on two axes - allowing for more castor.

The second shows a stock LHS bracket.

The third shows the Nismo bracket installed with a stock upper arm. Interestingly (or not) the bracket ends up giving you less camber for the same arm length. The shot was taken before I installed some new arms that I had made.

The fourth is a drawing of a Cusco arm - these are 10mm shorter than the stock arms. Note the trail. Unfortunately I don't have a drawing of a stock arm. Mostly due to being lazy.

The last shows the whole lot bolted up with the new arm - in rattle pack black, no less. I drew the arms to use the Whiteline bushes.

As an aside note that Nismo used to do a sliding bracket for the R32, but now all you get is a stock item with harder bushes. Also their castor rods are approx 5mm shorter than the stock items.

post-5134-1250123456_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1250123525_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1250123559_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1250123601_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1250124466_thumb.jpg

Just for posterity I believe there to be an error in the location of the NIsmo bolt hole in the first drawing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy Yeah i know. The RB20 has 180Nm torque and the gearbox "should" take up to 400Nm if you are not doing stuff like drag/drift or dumping clutch and of course then it is pure "luck" on how will it last. My problem is (i think i said this in different post) that my car was very badly maintain so i would not be suprised if the oil in the gearbox was not changed until i bought it. Yeah the gearbox seem little bit sad.   @Sxnjeet the +T seem very interesting but from where iam from it was nearly "impossible" to done right and not blow twice as money as just swap for the RB25.
    • Hi, I went to the MINES shop here and bought something.. Niikura-San just happened to be there so I managed to take some pics and got him to sign my dash surround thingy. Its still wrapped in plastic back home.. I was thinking how to preserve the signature??? Im sure someones thought of this and done this in the past.
    • Perfect - thanks Joshuaho96!  Will see what I can source.
    • If the plastic wore, the paint will wear quicker. Heck, most car manufacturers cant keep the coatings they put on their buttons/trims alive these days for more than 5 years... A cheap paint won't do it!   However, you can get away with high quality vynil wrap, primarily in areas that won't cop much abuse. Skip colour matching, and just try and wrap a specific area with an edge in a new colour.   PS vynil wrapping is a prick of a job, and I suck at it, even for a small dead flat surface...
    • I think this is more a question you should ask the tuner. My assumption is you have nothing plugged into the original pin for ring gear crankshaft, which is where your map sensor should get wired to, but now you've asked the tuner to disable it. I'm assuming (because I haven't memorised your setup) you are using RB25 ECU on the RB20 loom, to plug into an RB25. You will want to check what else is connected potentially backwards between the engine, loom, and ECU. You might be all fine and safe. The best solution you could have done is wire in a map sensor, and leave the ECU able to read a map sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...