Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone

just one thing iv been thinking bout lately is the the stock denso supra fuel pump

that flow 330lph at 13.5 volts

now i bought a s/h nismo pump and ended up being dodgey i cant really afford to spend $550+ on a new one

so iv been looking in to these fuel pumps i can get them for bout $250 new

which i think is good value and out flows the nismo one by a far bit

there 51mm in diameter so same size as stock so shouldnt have to many drams fitting them

and denso is no shit brand or there not gunna fail like the walbros

whats ppls thoughts on these

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282143-denso-supra-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

These genuine denso supra pumps are really great units...i drive a supra now and researching them they have been known to flow enough for small to medium singles...lotsa guys running street setups putting out 300rwkw on the stock pumps...

Can i ask...where can you get them for $250 new? i've been trying to source them and get quoted over well above $400 for a pump...

heres details from suppler

Hi mate, pump flows 330lph at 13.5 volts and is 51mm in

diameter. Its made by KYOSAN japan which is a good O.E.M

supplier to toyota, mazda etc.

It is identical in appearance to the denso 51mm fuel pump. Has

also the same connectors as the denso. However flows more than

the denso as has a twin pump system. The denso only flows

220lph and this flows 330lph.

Its the highest flowing intank pump that we know of and have

ever come accross as we test all our pumps to see which are the

best to use in our customer cars.

This pump will have enough flow to supply as much, if not more

than an bosch 044 used with a surge tank (so saves you a lot of

money having to convert to a surge tank setup).

We have tested and know guaranteed that this pump flows over

300lph as thats all our test unit flow up to as there isn't a test unit

that will show over 300lph, most only go up to 200 - 250lph.

So guarantee that you wont be disappointed otherwise your

money back guarantee and comes with 12 months warrantee. We

don't sell cheap aftermarket products only the best genuine

performance products and test everything to perform before we

sell it and back everything we sell with a 12 month warrantee.

These pumps will retail for over $700, only reason we sell them

so cheap is because we are wholesalers and purchase in bulk.

So give us a call next week and they should be in.

thanks P.W

-

  • 4 months later...

Digging up an old thread, where abouts where you able to purchase the Denso and what was the part number.

Is it the Denso 195130-1020? Or was it the Kyosan pump (modified denso pump)? Thew flow figures suggest the later.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

...re-digging up an old thread...

Can the standard fuel pump controller in a R33 GTR be used with a Bosch 044 fuel pump? Or am I better off grounding it so the pump sees the full voltage all the time?

Cheers,

Mike

Ground it at a minimum.. measure the voltage you are getting at the pump afterward and decide if you need a larger feed, I did.. but considering you have a 33, you don't have the wiring run from front of the car to the back so you might be ok.

Edited by heller44

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
    • Hiya guys,    i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for.  what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that.    I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
×
×
  • Create New...