Need Help Getting Power Out Of My Stagea

[RS-V AREO]

hey all

pretty much i want to make 210-220, i an running a pretty much stock stagea onlt thing i have done is 3in exhaust

i just want to know:

how much boost can i run through a stock ecu

what chips/programs can i use to make it a safer tune

what mods should i get to make the power figure

at what stage should i get into serious engine mod

any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers josh

[QWK32]

Fist get a good ar filter if you don't already. Then get a FMIC and a boost controller and crank it up to about 11psi, this will be ok on the stock ecu. Then look into getting a Nistune Chip for the stock ecu, there are a couple threds already on Nistune if you want to get some more info on that. Is your stagea auto, if so you will need to look at getting a shift kit. You won't see that power figue with the stock turbo in it's comfortable limit so you will then need to look into replacing the turbo, either a high flow or a complete after market one.

That's probably the basics of what you would need to reliably make that power. a few other things that may need upgrading, like the fuel pump, coils, etc

Edited August 5, 2009 by QWK32

[_Ryan_]

Nistune, Series 2 on stock turbo should be able to do 200ish at the wheels on 10-11psi with a good tune. fuel pump, coils prop not. shift kit yes. Series 2 already have the bigger trans cooler. FMIC wont be needed but can be done, will avoid heatsoaked SMIC

[kidafa]

Firstly your going to need the supportive mods for any real power gain:

• 3 Inch front & dump pipe
  
• High Flow/Gutted cat
  
• 3" Cat Back
  
• Better filter element or BOXED pod with a cold air feed
  
• Spiltife Coils ( if yours a showing any sign of leaking spark)
  
• FMIC
  
• Boost Controller set to 12psi
  
• Fuel pump depending on how much your power your chasing.
  

Then your going to need to sort out some kind of engine management to tidy the tune and make the car work with 12psi (you will probably find it will R&R on stock computer) here are some options:

• Nisstune Chip
  
• Toshi remap
  
• SAFC and SITC Combo
  
• Emanage ect ect..
  

As you've got an s2 Id probably be leaning towards the nisstune chip.

All this on a good tune done properly should get you pretty close to 200ish at the rears on a NEO engine

[BensDR30]

hey all

pretty much i want to make 210-220, i an running a pretty much stock stagea only thing i have done is 3in exhaust

i just want to know:

how much boost can i run through a stock ecu

what chips/programs can i use to make it a safer tune

what mods should i get to make the power figure

at what stage should i get into serious engine mod

any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers josh

Check out the dyno results thread - there is a wealth of info there regarding what provides what.

[rx7gt]

hey all

pretty much i want to make 210-220, i an running a pretty much stock stagea onlt thing i have done is 3in exhaust

i just want to know:

how much boost can i run through a stock ecu

what chips/programs can i use to make it a safer tune

what mods should i get to make the power figure

at what stage should i get into serious engine mod

any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers josh

though I would paste this in from r33 section

Engine Tuning Stage 1

Exhaust (around 160rwkw)

The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.

Average Cost: ???

Intake (160 to 170rwkw)

Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.

Average Cost: ???

Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw)

The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.

Average Cost: ???

Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw)

In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator.

A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.

Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.

A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.

No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.

Average Cost: ???

[KiwiRS4T]

There is a huge difference in $$$ between just making 200awkw (in itself quite hard to do in an awd auto Stagea compared to the 2wd manual skylines in the forced induction thread in the skyline section) and making more than 210 - 220

To maximise the stock turbo with minimum spend you need full 3in turbo back exhaust, nistune chip for tuning (and to remove 180km/hr limit), highflow filter in your stock air box, upgraded fuel pump (both to ensure you don't run out of fuel at high revs and to maximise your stock injectors), an aftermarket adjustable fpr (again to maximise your stock injectors - not needed if you are getting bigger injectors) and an electronic boost controller. Your S2 smic will be fine at this level (in fact up to 210awkw or more) but the final element is ... a really good tune from a really good tuner. With all this you may just make 200awkw. [if you make it to this level you will be going quite quickly and should be looking to spend some money on brakes and suspension before you look for more power].

The next stage will cost a few more thousands of dollars to get and support more boost: a better turbo (GCG highflow, GT3076 for example) bigger injectors, a Z32 AFM and by now you should be looking for a fmic.

[rb26stagea]

Bear in mind also that the front end of a RSV is completely different to the RSFOUR: brakes and suspension are entirely different. I agree with KiwiRS4T: get the fundamentals and supporting mods done before trying to get too much more power out of the car: that factory brakes especially are adequate at best on a standard car...

[RS-V AREO]

just thought i would add, mine is a rsv and i have a pod filter also i'm guessing i need a electronic boost controller? what is the best kind of controller, and as for the high flow turbo what kinda should i get and what is oine that isn't massively expencive but can provide the power i need. and what kinda fuel pump should i get to do the job?

Thnaks for all the help

[BensDR30]

Josh,

While you are a new forum member and keen to ask lots of questions, you should spend some time looking at the 'sticky' threads and doing some searches. EBC's and turbo upgrades have been covered a number of times in the Stagea section alone (not to mention the main 'Skyline' or 'Forced Induction' areas). Have a look around and then ask away - we're willing to help out, but we appreciate those who show initiative.

[M I K E]

handling > power any day of the week