Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Has anyone powder coated their R34 GTR rims and had the centre caps done as well?

I dropped my rims off tonight to get coated but they dont think they can do the centres due to them melting in the oven (200 degrees for 20min, i think) and dont want to waste one in the process just to try.

Any help would be great......

Cheers

NutR33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282285-powder-coating-r34-gtr-rims/
Share on other sites

some plastics can be coated, others cant .

IE -

ford falcon plastic tappet cover covers = yes -

ls1 inlet manifolds = yes

r34 plastic front cam gear covers warp in the heat

i should try it on the 33 gtst rim centres i have - but its a big risk on 34 GTR centres

Craved written on the back of an R34 GTR centre cap is

>PC+ABS<

SAE PC+ABS

I can take a pic if that will help.

N1GTR, last time i brought a centre cap it was about $80 trade price, part number 40315-AA310

Cheers

NutR33

Craved written on the back of an R34 GTR centre cap is

>PC+ABS<

SAE PC+ABS

I can take a pic if that will help.

N1GTR, last time i brought a centre cap it was about $80 trade price, part number 40315-AA310

Cheers

NutR33

LEGEND!!! Cheers :)

Craved written on the back of an R34 GTR centre cap is

>PC+ABS<

SAE PC+ABS

I can take a pic if that will help.

N1GTR, last time i brought a centre cap it was about $80 trade price, part number 40315-AA310

Cheers

NutR33

dude, thats exactly what i needed - cheers

the resins used in some PC/ABS blends seems to have a melt point of 260 degrees - suggests that coating them should not melt them at a lower cure temp of 180 degrees.

forgot to get the centre cap from the 33 gtst rims i have, if the makeup of those is the same then a test on those will let me know if they will survive.

if a photo can be taken of the back of it to display the re-inforcement setup of the caps, this will give a good impression of the likelyhood of shape change at these temps.

  • 4 weeks later...

gtst centres are PA6+PPE plastic - but they hold up fine under 180 degree coating temps

One i tested was filthy with old high temp matt black paint - once i find the clean pair that i didnt paint i'll start working out the coating process - thing to overcome with plastic is gas release from the plastic as the coating flows and links on the part

got mine powder coated in satin black (not quite glossy enough unless very clean and waxed) got the caps done as well. No problems at all

unless powder coater just sprayed the caps... not sure...

Edited by SS8_Gohan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...