Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As much as she'd love new shoes, it's coming up to the time where my baby needs to be reheeled!! (coincidentally I just noticed it on my fav pair of shoes too...)

I don't know much on this topic so I thought I'd put it out there. What kinda tyres are you guys all using? Going to need something in a 17x9 :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282299-what-tyres-do-people-have/
Share on other sites

The tyres that the guy I bought my car off put on it before I bought it (~100kms before :P) are actually QUITE good

They're maxxis tyres, can't remember the model number as such, 17" x 9", were around $165 each. Tread is plenty deep, handles really well in the wet (unless of course you're boasting 362rwkw, kat)

I've got the receipt for them if you want the model number, just in case you wanna look into something like it a bit further, otherwise yeah a lot of ppl on here use and recommend federal tyres, apparently they're great tyres for a budget price :D

Using RE55 now and they're awesome. I feel very safe doing corners at higher speed comparing to the old chinese shit. Having said that, they're too exp to replace (bought wheel and they came with it). I've heard good stuff about KU36 (slivia forum is selling them cheap) and Federal 595SS (a lot of people can get it cheap here). With the price them $235 for 265/35/18 KU36 and SS, you cant go wrong.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle LS2000 which go for $229 each. They dont score high on the fashion side of things but they do the job. I had to brake hard recently to avoid having a kangaroo through the windscreen and was happy with the stopping distance.

I'm here, I'm here! :P

Kat - What do you want most out of your tyres? - Life, low noise, max dry grip, max wet grip? No tyre can do everything, there is always a comprimise...

With your car's power figure and the amount that you drive it (I'm assuming not that much?) - I always recommend the 595RS-R because it will give you massive amounts of dry traction whil still being quite predictable and progressive in the wet and maintaining good life (around 25 - 27,000kms depending on how you drive).

You will need 255/40R17's for your rims.

Ask Michele, Jeno or Donnan - they all use these and I'm sure they are very happy with them.

P.S. - PM me for prices. :D

post-17958-1249603552_thumb.jpg

Given the wording in Mick's response, he just sold me a set of Federal's when I need to change mine! lol not that I wasn't gonna look at going with Fed's anyway when the Maxxis' are done.

haha what bad experience did you have with Maxxis tyres Kat? Mine have been great so far, give me the scenario and I'll try recreating it - see what I get :)

On my 17x9s I have Toyo T1Rs, 255/40/17 x4, and they are a great road tyre in all conditions. They were $330 each (probably a touch high but I needed them that week).

If I had to do it again I would be looking at the Kumho KU36.

yokohama advan 102's on the front 245 40 17

yokohama advan V103's on the back 265 40 17

had 102's on the back, gripped well but wore out in no time, 103's are longer wearing.

Might look you up Mick, when it's time to go again. I like the look of that tyre you posted, my 102's were the same as that, great road pattern but yoko's are exe around $400 fitted a tyre hurts

Cheers for the posts guys :)

Mick, sent you a PM!

I didn't have one specific incident with the Maxxis but overall I found them a really shit tyre and noticed a huge difference when I changed. Considering my car is now a fair bit more powerful there's no way I'd go back there!

Currently running Hankooks all round (unsure of the specific model) and they've been ok for a pretty cheap tyre but would like to upgrade this time round.

There's a decent thread in suspension area that covers many types of tyres. Unfortunatly opinions are like assholes and often wrong particuarly comparing tyres with different wear etc.

From my GTR with 266awkw and a no BS answer.

595-ss 255/40/17 Around town tyre, lacking in grip when you want to use the power. Around the track it was most evident the car suspension was out handeling the tyres. This size also lowers the speedo slightly but still within ADR.

Some Korean/chine tyre in 255/45/17, great match for actual speed on the speedo, unfortunatly the 595-SS are 10 times better and only about $50 more per tyre. ( I would worry about the name, except they are so bad)

595-RSR 265/35/18 Now these tyres make a dramatic improvement to steering and grip well above just upsizing the rim an inch. They are a bit slow to warm up and wet handeling is not super confident but all over far better then the 595-SS. For about $400-500 a tyre you can't go wrong. Most other big brand name Semi slicks are considered better from reading tyre comparo's but when you look at the pilot sport for $1000 a tyre, the Federals give a very good showing.

Conclusion, unless you have $4000 to spend on tyres, buy the Federal 595-RSR.

Well that's the thing, opinions are just that. They're not fact they are just what people think. Doesn't mean I'm going to just go and do what everyone tells me to do, I was just curious to see what exactly it was that most people seemed to be using. Good varying range there so it seems.

Few other things have worn and the car is booked in to Inline soon as well. Just getting a bit of an idea before I head off and plan anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...