Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently parked the old girl in the shed with intentions of bringing her back to life(1989 gtst r32).

The car has been sitting in the yard at my brothers with no bonnet so the bores have gathered abit of surface rust.

I have since pulled the motor from the car and am wondering where to start and also if the block will be ok to use.I know ill need a new oil pump as i cracked it trying to remove the crank gear.

Just want to know what a standard rebuild includes

Like bearings

Rings

If the block will need to be honed/acid dipped

ETC ETC

Any help will be result in a feeling of inner happyness :/:P .......(results may vary)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282383-rb20det-rebuild-time/
Share on other sites

for the price of a standard rebuild you could almost get a RB25 in there

what a useless answer seriously..

pretty much what you said mate,its ya gaskets and oil pump that are the killer for these engines $$$$

drop ya head of and block and a machine shop get hear recoed and bores cleaned up they then can tell you wether need oversize rings and what not.

also water pump, timing belt, thermostat and housing best to do everything whilst its out.

good luck with it mate, love the 20's

what a useless answer seriously..

pretty much what you said mate,its ya gaskets and oil pump that are the killer for these engines $$$$

drop ya head of and block and a machine shop get hear recoed and bores cleaned up they then can tell you wether need oversize rings and what not.

also water pump, timing belt, thermostat and housing best to do everything whilst its out.

good luck with it mate, love the 20's

Not really - he asked if it was all OK to use, clearly nothing really is.

By the time you piss all the money into a RB20 like that to get it running you could have a RB25 in, and running.

How is that not the better solution and wiser spending of the money - i will never know.

Unless he goes the $500 wrecker motor option (which is the only other thing i would suggest), rebuilding the RB20 is the very much silly avenue.

Perhaps the OP does not realise the costs involved, work, cost of RB25s and so on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...