Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey every one

I have a slight problem with my car as i feel it does not pull even under full boost.. but before i go into that let me give you all the information..

Mods:

Nissan skyline r32 gtst (rb20det)

Greddy intercooler

Pod filter

R32 gtr Fuel pump

Vg30 single version ball bearing turbo

Stock rb20det ecu

Apexi SAFC 2

Apexi AVCR

Initially i had all this installed in my car and had not done any dyno tuning and had the avcr on basic settings running 0.83 bar on my turbo and it was pretty quick and the car pulled hard and lost traction in first gear and second..

About 2 months ago i had my car tuned (using the safc and avcr) at a tuning place in Perth , WA.. after i got the car back now it is just hesitant to pull sometimes.. however when i look on my avcr and change it to the graph mode i hit full boost and keep a smooth straight line ( on full boost ), however i get a whine/high pitch noise and the car does not pull. First of all i thought it maybe be just a good tune and its smooth so i don't feel the pull but nope i cant even break traction in first gear any more ( to give a comparison ).

I thought it was my intercooler core that was leaking as it was a second hand china spec one so i ended up buying a new Greddy intercooler kit and i still am faced with the same problem.. it gets worse as the higher gear i select. for example 1st gear i have pull no whine noise, second gear before full boost i get a whine/high pitch noise and it pulls but not as hard, third, fourth and fifth gear before full boost i get a whine/ high pitch noise and even after it has reached full boost the car still wont pull.. then about 3-5 seconds delay all off a sudden the car pulls..

So in other words it seems as if the turbo is at full boost but there is a lag off about 3-5 seconds and then the car desides to pull..

Does any one have any ideas what could be the problem.. could it be the way the AVCR and SAFC has been set so that it has a delay?

Any help appreciated

Thank you, Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/
Share on other sites

at a guess your hitting some sort of fuel cut

keep turning the boost down by 0.10kgcm2 at a time (or bar) and repeat until you get your power back

its probably tripping out a fuel cut somewhere in the rb20 ecu, i cant remember what its mapping is like

with a different turbo, its probably beneficial to get a complete remap or stand alone

it should work with an SAFC, but its a juggle exercise

and whilst it might be spot on, on the dyno and run flat out

once you plonk it on the road, the load axis could be slighly different

which means it could use a different mapping axis and correction etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756169
Share on other sites

Hey man

Oh awesome .. yer i was going to go for a full ecu but im saving up for a rb25 so just wanted a small tune to get a bit more power out off the car at the moment.

so it should be fine to turn the boost down in 0.10 kgcm2 increments without having to change any settings on the safc?

Thanks, Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756231
Share on other sites

Most people who brought in their dead skyline turbos for high flow said similar thing before their turbo totally died. Its good idea to check for shaft play and see it spins freely.

dam, thats what i was afraid of.. definatly will check that out today and see what it feels like.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756511
Share on other sites

Hey mate i removed the turbo and checked for shaft play it doesn’t move side to side, however it moves forward and back 1-2mm give or take.. However when i spin it by hand it makes a slight hum noise?

Could the bearing be gone? if so would it stuff up my power like this and cause it not to pull?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756819
Share on other sites

Hey mate i removed the turbo and checked for shaft play it doesn’t move side to side, however it moves forward and back 1-2mm give or take.. However when i spin it by hand it makes a slight hum noise?

Could the bearing be gone? if so would it stuff up my power like this and cause it not to pull?

Its dead needs to be highflowed or replaced. BB turbos are not suppose to have any play. There are only 20thou between wheel so its probably touching its housing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756880
Share on other sites

Its dead needs to be highflowed or replaced. BB turbos are not suppose to have any play. There are only 20thou between wheel so its probably touching its housing.

Dam that sucks :down: . hmm just wondering mate how much would it cost to highflow/rebuild the vg30? and also is it worth rebuilding a turbo like this?

Thanks man for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756937
Share on other sites

been chasing a similiar problem in mine

its prob the stock ecu pulling timing as it gets close to too much air flow for the stock ecu

there should be settings in the safc that will cap the voltage being sent to the ecu from the safc

i just finished putting an old school 5 button safc on my 32 today and its pulls onto boost much harded (even though i only roughly tuned it by feel)

but as hypergear said, play is not good although i may have to argue with him a little and say that a vg30et turbo (off the top of my head) it a bush bearing turbo, but i'm probably wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756973
Share on other sites

Just $800 to high flow. with the VG30's rear housing it can be high flow it to produce around 280rwkws with supporting mods.

I haven't had VG30 turbos been BB yet. the topic says its VG30 ball bearing turbo. so maybe a unusual version.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756975
Share on other sites

Maybe you both are right.. i don’t think this turbo is a ball bearing turbo as it doesn’t spin for a long period of time when you flick it with your fingers..

pipster- i will keep playing around with the safc and see if anything gets better

hypergear- i will keep in contact with you.

Thanks , Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4756987
Share on other sites

damn :down::P !!! i just got the same problem with mine today. i can only hear it at 70-80kmh, cant hear it when accelerating out of 1st gear and car feels weird as well and it constantly whines when i got up to freeway speeds. my car only has an intercooler, exhaust and air filter done and the boost is untouched, still with the stock ecu. previously it made signs like it whistles when im on 2400rpm and when i accelerate, it dissapears. looks like its finally decide to give up. can a highflow turbo or any similar turbos be safely run with the factory ecu and boost controller still in place?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757090
Share on other sites

Well if you run around 10~12psi of boost with factory ECU is fine. The VG30's got .63 rear end which is very good for high flowing. But to get that 280rwkws you need injectors, fuel mods, ecu, afm and etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757280
Share on other sites

Well if you run around 10~12psi of boost with factory ECU is fine. The VG30's got .63 rear end which is very good for high flowing. But to get that 280rwkws you need injectors, fuel mods, ecu, afm and etc.

ok cheers. ill keep in contact with you as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757347
Share on other sites

get a 2nd opinion or try what i said please

the guy who is telling you what is wrong is a business

selling an exact product that would you need if yours failed

Hey buddy

I tried what you advised and turned my boost down in small increments, and in the end as you would know the avcr can have 2 settings A and B so i didn’t touch the tune setting, and changed to B and put all the basic settings again.. it doesn’t screw up as bad however it still comes and goes..

Ill try removing my safc or again if it has a setting a and b i will return it to standard also and see how it goes.. if that doesn’t work my plan was to get it on a dyno to make sure exactly what’s going on..

Thanks, Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757521
Share on other sites

Hey mate, yer man thought it was clutch so i ended up putting a new exeddy brass button one..

Thanks , niran

thats cool, has it done it since the brass one has been in?

you got after cam gears? they are known to make a whine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757617
Share on other sites

Buckets - hey man, yer still doing it after i got the clutch put it, and nah have stock cam gears it sounds like a turbo noise as it just does not pull unless if my fuel pump isn't getting enough voltage to pump fuel through is my only other idea left..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282444-turbo-problem/#findComment-4757946
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
×
×
  • Create New...