Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i start the car, it fires and starts, but as soon as it starts just stalls

could it be fuel pump, it seems to be fine as i took the hose off and put it in a bottle and seemed to be flowing fuel pretty fast

i was thinking it could be fuel reg, so i blocked the return line and try to start, same thing

now i am wondering if it could be the fuel relay, could it be possible?

should i try give the fuel pump straight 12v from battery then try start?

AFM, car will start if i unplug it right?

Edited by Flash89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282481-car-starts-then-stalls/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Car will run with AFM unplugged try doing that and see how it goes if you notice a difference straight away try cleaning your AFM.

Mates 34 started running rough then would not idle once started untill i unplugged the AFM, we cleaned it and now its perfect again so i would give that a go its an easy thing to do.

they could well be blocked, but you would think that it wouldn't start if they were. have you pulled the spark plugs out to see what they are like?

the amount of fuel flowing by the pump shouldn't be an issue. even if it is flowing lots, it isn't like a car with a carby where it will flood it. the fuel pump has a line to the engine and then there is a line that returns to the tank as well. the fuel pump constantly pumps fuel and the amount going into the engine is determined by the injectors.

and while the car may run with the AFM unplugged, it will usually run like crap, and if you have weak/fouled plugs it won't run.

what happens if you start the car with a little bit of throttle?

spark plugs are new, i have tried throttle still the same. when i have the time i will try the pump out of my 32 and if still doesnt work i will be pretty sure it will be injectors.

thing is i took the cas out and spun the shaft to check if injectors where working. i spun it quite a bit so there would of been a fair bit of fuel in there. after that tried to start it again and it started for a bit longer like another 2 sec or so.

how many cylinders that fire that can actually keep the car going, i am thinking that some of the injectors are bit blocked as not spraying enogugh fuel. (if someone could educate me on that)

the car will start on less than 6 cylinders. it will run on about 4 (not sure about starting though). if you are concerned about the injectors then i would get them professionally cleaned. it should cost around $200 to get all 6 done and it gives a much better result than injector cleaner you put in the tank.

i wouldn't bother about the fuel pump. it is pumping fuel so it is fine. fuel pumps generally pump just as hard at idle as they do at high rpm (although some cars don't). so as long as it is pumping fuel then it is fine.

well i got the car started in limp mode, after changing the injectors. when the afm was connected it was doing the same thing, so i changed it to my old afm which was working on my old rb20 and still that same, is there a way to figure out a fault in the wiring to the afm??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
×
×
  • Create New...