Jump to content
SAU Community

Eoi: Parting Out My R32 Gts-t


grandmasterb
 Share

Recommended Posts

So im thinking about parting out the R32 GTS-t and converting back to stock in the hope to sell it easier. That means the following parts would be available for sale if there is enough interest. All items currently/were going to be fitted to my RB20DET and will have pics up if there is enough interest in items to begin parting out car.

All items are located in Hobart, prices do not include delivery but local pick up available.

GReddy TD-06L2: This is a full kit that includes turbo, manifold, dump pipe & external gate. Currently fitted with the 10cm rear housing (no longer available) and is a full genuine kit.

$3000 will not seperate

HKS 264' 9.0mm cams: These are currently in my old engine and have traveled less than 100ks since being fitted.

2202-RN174 - INLET (RB20DET)

2202-RN175 - EXHAUST (RB20DET/RB25DET)

$850 will not seperate

TOMEI 555 injectors: These are currently in my old engine and have traveled less than 100ks since being fitted. These are top feed injectors and will fit RB20DET/R32/33/34GTR & Stagea 260RS.

$800 will not seperate

GKTECH cam gears: These are currently in my old engine and have traveled less than 100ks since being fitted, inlet & exhaust red in colour.

$150 for the pair

BOSCH Z32 afm: Brand new including plug

$300

2way: Currently fitted to my car and in excellent condition.

$900

JJR Oil cooler & relocation kit: Brand new 18row core & lines with sandwhich plate.

$250 will not seperate

BOSCH 040 Brand new never used

$200

JJR coils: Less than 100ks old could pass as new.

$350

SABER gauges: Brand new never used including: Boost V2, oil pressure, oil temperature, water temperate & air/fuel.

$100 each or all 5 for $400

BRIDE Zeta III sport: Structurally in great condition but could use recovering. Fitted to a BRIDE low mount seat rail to suit R32 GTS-t

$800 including rail

APEXI PFC AP Engineering: This is a genuine AP Engineering PFC for RB20DET with commander.

$1900 will not seperate

I also have alot of stock spares to suit RB20DET/RB25DE: Cas, afm, ignitor, coils, cams, injectors, starter motor, alternator and varies hoses etc, all in excellent working condition.

Will update thread with more parts once i know exactly what im doing along with the car :blink:

Reply or PM if interested or have any queries

Cheers Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SABER gauges: Brand new never used including: Boost V2, oil pressure, oil temperature, water temperate & air/fuel.

$100 each or all 5 for $400

hey mate i am interest in these gaugesand what did you want for your rb20 engine? can you can drop me a pm with your number being a new member on here i cant pm you grrr silly rule

cheers Luke

Edited by Lanky r32 gts_t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...