Speaker Cables

[mgb2002]

Has anyone replaced/used bigger/better speaker cables instead of the standard factory ones in their R34 GTT?

I'm going to use a 4-channel amp from the boot and run the cables from there using the passenger side to the front speakers. (The power cable from the battery and the remote cable will be run through the drivers side.)

The factory wiring is usually not the best quality, so I'd like to replace them with better ones.

Can they be run through the factory connector in the door? Is there enough room in the connectors to run extra wires?

Or do I have to make an extra hole in the door to run the new cables trough?

Edited August 10, 2009 by mgb2002

[Carbon 34]

Has anyone replaced/used bigger/better speaker cables instead of the standard factory ones in their R34 GTT?

I'm going to use a 4-channel amp from the boot and run the cables from there using the passenger side to the front speakers. (The power cable from the battery and the remote cable will be run through the drivers side.)

The factory wiring is usually not the best quality, so I'd like to replace them with better ones.

Can they be run through the factory connector in the door? Is there enough room in the connectors to run extra wires?

Or do I have to make an extra hole in the door to run the new cables trough?

sounds a bit wonky in your words..lol but yes I have run larger wires into my GTT doors, it is a bugger to do !!! very tight access

if your not after massive loud tunes you can run the amp speaker wires to the factory harness behind the radio, and solder on from those to avoid the wire running into the doors ?(most common dealers would do this route unless requested to run new wires into doors)

amp wires will go down drivers side to battery, RCA/trigger wire down passenger side, speaker wires down the middle or passenger away from RCA

fused at the battery, grounded in the boot to a solid bolt with paint removed around it, dont drill into fuel tank,Hicas steering lines, etc ?

if your not sure take it to a shop to get it done properly. and remember the airbag and seat belt tensioner pre-charges can be triggered if you dont use caution !!!

[-Stokesy-]

Yeah i ran my cables through the molex plugs in my R33 and it was a massive job!! to have a shop do this they would change you close to $500. In my car i have 2 runs of speaker cable on both sides and an optical from the head unit to the boot.

As mentioned by sapphiregraphics the best option is to run new cable to the door then use the existing cable from there.

[mgb2002]

Thnx guys!

Already found the info in the Sticky (step 4).

Knew I have seen that one before, should have looked better.

Edited August 13, 2009 by mgb2002

[SideWhiskers]

Hey mate,

Keep in mind that the shorter the cable length, the smaller the wire. Don't go giving yourself headaches running 12g wire 2m when a 16g will work just fine for the amount of power. That said, it never hurts to go bigger.

[-Stokesy-]

Hey mate,

Keep in mind that the shorter the cable length, the smaller the wire. Don't go giving yourself headaches running 12g wire 2m when a 16g will work just fine for the amount of power. That said, it never hurts to go bigger.

That's a good point. But given that the only real place you have in a skyline to mount an amp is the boot, by the time it gets from the amp through the door and on to the speaker it is close to 6m. It also depends on the amount of power you're running as the loss in the cables is proportional to the current squared. I'm running close to 200wrms a side so i felt 12g was required, plus i like fat cable

[Carbon 34]

That's a good point. But given that the only real place you have in a skyline to mount an amp is the boot, by the time it gets from the amp through the door and on to the speaker it is close to 6m. It also depends on the amount of power you're running as the loss in the cables is proportional to the current squared. I'm running close to 200wrms a side so i felt 12g was required, plus i like fat cable

12ga is overkill for front speakers on that short cable run ???? on 1 pair of speakers ? at 200watts your only pulling around 17 amps (off the top of my head math..lol)and the load capacity of the wire is 41 amps for 12ga, 32amps for 14ga ? so you wont be stressing it too much and the Resistance is also minimal on that short run

its much more important to run it properly to avoid shorts,kinks,induced noise from computers, and other power lines. and solder and tape the connections even it your using crimp on connections, they do fail.

buy wire that is made for car audio speakers, hardware store lamp cord works and is cheap but its not very flexible and can be brittle inside and out due to the UV and heat inside cars

and mount the speakers flat, not warped . protect from water on the top of the speakers from the windows

think we have filled this thread enough now..lol

[-Stokesy-]

True, but having said that the load limit of a cable is how much current it will take before it start to get too hot, once your getting up to there power loss is the least of your worries I agree 12g is large but given the amount i spent on my amps and speakers i wanted to transfer every watt i could, plus it's just as easy to run 12g as it is to run 16g and the cost difference is marginal.