Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm doubting I'll get much interest in this kind of vehicle on this site, but I thought I'd try just in case!

Ideally, I'm looking for swaps for any of the following:

S14 S2 200sx

S2 Stagea

Or the right R33 (again, must be S2)

So if you've got any of those and you're interested, give me a yell!!

1997 EL Falcon Futura sedan

-Red in colour

-Grey interior

-Auto

-ABS (have pulled fuse for more predictable on the brakes spooling/burnouts)

-Cruise control - still there and working, just need a factory bracket to hold the cable to the rocker cover.

-Tinted windows

-Power front windows, Remote central locking etc

The car itself is in tidy, clean condition. It's not perfect, but that's all part of the sleeper theme. Has the usual scratches and dints that you'd expect for a 12 year old car, but the paint is quite shiny.

Interior is good condition. Only modification in the interior is a boost gauge under the ashtray, which is fairly discreet.

Mechanically it has a freshly rebuilt bottom end and head, has prepped rods, ARP stud kit and a few other touches that I can't quite remember. These engines, even in standard form, tuned correctly are known to hang together with big power.

6Boost exhaust manifold,

50mm wastegate,

T04Z spec turbo with a beanie.

Bleed valve to adjust the boost.

3" mandrel bent exhaust from the turbo back. The tip is even squashed oval just like the factory one, so you can't tell is has an exhaust. It's fairly quiet too.

600x300x75 cooler. This is currently unpainted, but as it sits very neatly inside the standard bar, it's not particularly noticeable. I do have the factory mesh to put back in front of it though, and I was planning to spray the cooler matt black.

The piping under the bonnet has been painted black to look as standard as possible.

Fuelling consists of:

GRA LPG setup consisting of an S480 throttle body, twin B2 converters, twin lines all the way to the tank and "hi flow" lock offs.

The petrol system is still present and working. It runs very well on petrol, but as it's the standard pump, injectors etc you can only cruise off boost. It's still very handy for when you run out of gas, or can't be stuffed filling up!

This car is cheap as to run, and costs me less than $10 per 100km to run!

Ignition:

Crane Hi-6 MSD Ignition and LX92 coil. I've mounted the Hi-6 setup inside the passenger kick panel to keep it dry and safe.

ICE 9mm Race leads

Custom tuned ignition map via a J3 chip in the factory ECU. Map sensor has been modified to bypass boost.

Auto has been rebuilt with extra clutches and has a mechanical shiftkit, which is not too firm to be a pig to live with. Currently has the standard stall. I do have a 3000rpm converter, but I haven't got around to putting it in yet.

Diff is the standard 3.08 ratio (excellent for loading up the turbo and helping it spool early) with a mini-spool.

Suspension is stock as a rock all round, which helps it hook up well.

The entire build is less than 6000kms and 6 months old! I'm only looking to sell as I hardly use it, and I would like to get myself back into a Nissan turbo.

The car is currently putting out 303rwkw. There is room for more though, and while it has plenty of fuel and spark to keep going, it needs better intercooling to go further. There is half a water injection setup already in the engine bay.

Overall, the car is a massive sleeper and given the standard ride height, standard hubcaps, stock looking exhaust, cooler behind the bumper etc, it has never had a 2nd glance from the police.

Thanks,

Justin.

d4bc_1-1.jpg

d754_1-1.jpg

18052009583.jpg

7b22_1.jpg

7863_1-1.jpg

d239_1.jpg

e23e_1.jpg

e7c4_1.jpg

hey mate impressive car

would you be interested in a swap for my Black r34 coupe, if you search my threads u will find it..

let me know via pm if u are

Update!

Finally got around to spraying the cooler matt black today, and I also put the standard mesh back in front of the cooler.

Now there is nothing that gives the car away!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
×
×
  • Create New...