Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok,

Rianto wanted me to post this...so that I can share with all those considering the swap....

I bought a set of 2005 350z shocks and springs that did low kms for an inflated price due to the demand for them!

These were fitted last weekend...

Pics of V35 with stock suspension...

aBefore001.jpg

aBefore002.jpg

aBefore003.jpg

Pics of V35 after the 350z suspension was installed...

aAfter001.jpg

aAfter002.jpg

aAfter003.jpg

Thoughts...

1. Was it worth the money?

A. Definitely!!!!

2. How does the 350z suspension compare with the V35's suspension?

A. 350z is a tad more bouncy/bumpy, however, still very very comfortable

3. How much did it lower the sedan?

A. As you can see, it's about 1 inch.

4. Which stock springs and suspension is lighter?

A. The 350z ones are slightly lighter....say, maybe 500 grams lighter overall...It definitely felt a bit lighter when I carried them...

5. How difficult was it to fit the suspension?

A. Well, I didn't want to dirty my hands/fingers, since I now got an office job for 3 mths, so I took it to my family mechanic and he charged me $120 (quite expensive)....It took him about 1 - 2hrs as he also gave my brakes a clean... So, it is not hard to fit....

6. How have the 350z springs changed the handling dynamics of the car?

7. Have you gotten around to getting a full wheel alignment yet? (1" drop can still make a lot of difference toe wise)

congrats you seem very satisfied with them :P

How much did the z suspension worth? + $120? To be honest I didn't see a difference at first look on before and After fitment until having a second close look. At least you reckon it's worth it And comfy.

Wheel alignment? Kidding, right? I spoke to the mechanic about it, he says not to even worry about it...

Handling characteristics? At very slow speeds on bumpy roads, I feel it is a tad bumpy...almost feels like coil overs...so i was quite surprised by that. Turns into corners, etc with no noticeable difference. However, my Mrs says the car doesn't feel as refined now due to the bumpiness. Anyway, I have been driving it to work everyday and it is fine for me...Feels like I am in a sportscar now....hehehe...

if you even remove a shock and replace the SAME one, you should get a wheel alignment. because you have lowered the car your toe has been affected (as already posted) and youre gonna f**k out your new tyres

spend the $60 and get a 4 wheel alignment or spend $800+ on a new set of tyres in about 5000km

wait till u put 20in low profile tyres, the bump nag will increase

oh, man u got nagging trouble waiting around the corner soon lol

I can even tell straight away when going from profile 45 on 18in to profile 35 on 19in that it gets bumpier on stock shocks , let alone from 17 to 20 like what u're planning to do...

^^^^+1 for wheel allignment if you value your tire wear. I've had z suspension in my car forabout a year now and have to admit it was he best bang for buck mod. Will start to explore height adjustable coilovers soon as I want to go a bit lower.

wait till u put 20in low profile tyres, the bump nag will increase

oh, man u got nagging trouble waiting around the corner soon lol

I can even tell straight away when going from profile 45 on 18in to profile 35 on 19in that it gets bumpier on stock shocks , let alone from 17 to 20 like what u're planning to do...

agree with rianto, going from 18s to 19s is still bearable. Think twice before going to 20s. And to achieve the VIP look you are after you would need a much bigger drop than z suspension

Wheel alignment? Kidding, right? I spoke to the mechanic about it, he says not to even worry about it...

:D personally, if he told you that i wouldn't worry about going back to see him

any decent tyre shop can do an alignment for around $40-$70 and 15 mins, it will bring your tyres back into spec

as you may already know even a 1" drop can make your wheels go from this ||-o--o-|| to this //-o--o-\\

maybe not a drastic change but enough to make a difference to your tyre's overall wear and life

couldn't agree more. I had a whiteline kit in my old R33 whichc lowers it by about 1"

although the neg camber increase was subtle and it works a treat on the race track, on the road it worn the inside of my front tyres in less than 10000km

for street use I recommend keeping the front alignment camber degree as stock as possible, if you want more corner handling, get a front caster rod bush/arm and increase your caster, so when your steering wheel is straight the wheels will be ||-o--o-|| and when you're turning right it's //-o--o-//

or \\-o--o-\\ when turning left (this is if viewed from behind). with that setting when turning in addition to body roll/centrifugal shift to one side, your setup on the road will push it towards a more 'neutral' corner ||-o--o--|| during hard cornering and you get more grip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...