Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes the rb26dett does fit into normal gts-t's (well i have seen and heard about plenty of conversions etc from the standard RB25DET to the RB26DETT)

The engine itself is alot more powerful i believe and theres also a few extras that come with the car ... i think.

its just like pathetic holdens etc,

They have SS models, HSV etc etc the GTR is just the more advanced, more powerful model of the GTS-T

Mostly those two things, but a few other subtle differences -

Added gauges to GTR

Different bodykit/wing/front bar/badging

Bigger fuel pump on GTR (bigger injectors etc taken as given on the different engine)

Different gearbox (different ratios)

Bigger brakes on GTR

Different wheels (forged alloy on GTR I think as opposed to cast on GTS-t)

Flared guards on GTR

That's about all I can think of right now, I'm sure there's more but that's probably most of it.

You can put an RB26DETT into a GTS-t without too many hassles. If you want the 4WD though, a better conversion is to drop one in to a GTS4, which has the same gearbox and 4WD system as a GTR.

Either way you are probably looking at around $10k for the conversion including parts and labour, plus a lot of time off the road. It can be viable if you buy the original car cheaply enough at the time.

Not to mention suspension, drivetrain, 4wd system, computer system, internal gauges and dials..

no comparison really :)

Kind of like the difference between a BMW 318i and a BMW M3.. the only similarity might be the BMW badge. Maybe instead of listing the difference we should list the similarities.. we'd be here for less time as the list of things they share is quite short :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available  It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go
    • I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray  I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5 Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock  Liability these days is a big issue though
    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
×
×
  • Create New...