Jump to content
SAU Community

Built Rb25/26, Gt3040 Turbo Kit, Custom Inlet Manifold, M800, R33 Box, Etc


Recommended Posts

Not having much luck selling my car complete so looking at striping it down and selling some parts if I can get the right $$ and then I will keep the shell and build it up later. I will post up as much info as I can but I am still trying to find all my stuff as the car engine etc was built about 4 years ago and I cant remeber it all.

Whole car is for sale other section, asking 20k, if I can get serious buyers for some stuff here I will start stripping car down. For now will try and keep chassis so I can rebuild it later. Wont to get a Stagea for now as the kids can ride around it that a lot easier.

Engine: R33 RB25,2630cc?, fully built engine by Nisspeed here in Adelaide. Engine was built, engine dyno tuned and fitted in car, we used it for 12 months at about 4 drag meets and very little street use. Engine was stipped down to check it out and have a look, sump baffels were istalled, new rings and since then it has only just been started. Engine includes

RB26 crank balanced, streightened and ground

RB26 rods preped with ARP bolts

ARP cradle studs

Wiesco forged 87mm pistons

sump mods for anti oil surge

Metal head gasket

N1 oil/water pump

New thermostat

RB25 head ported

HD valve springs

HKS? 272 and 264 cams ( one was new the other as good as cant remember the exact specs)

HKS adjustable exh cam gear

ARP head studs

RB26 clear cover - modified

R33 CAS

Rocker covers painted gloss balck with -10 fittings for the breather pipes

engine does not include inlet/exh manifold/PS pump/alternator/

Price: $6000

Turbo Setup

Garret GT3040, 0.82 exh housing

Blitz? Stainless low mount manifold - this thing is a work of art, I got it SH but in exc condition and modified the flanges to suit

Tial 38mm external gate

Will also include 3.5" dump pipe off turbo and screamer pipe off wastegate, as well as oil drain pipe for turbo, braided oil and water feed lines for the kit

Turbo and gate were new and are still in as new condition

$2000

Inlet:

Custom inlet manifold on std runners - old Subzero type one, with 70mm? 5ltr holden throttle body

Includes alloy fuel rail with 75lb ~800cc Holley injectors

Sard pressure reg

Injectors, reg and fuel rail were new, mainfold SH but polished up

$1200

Fuel System

SX fuel pump, good for 700 HP

SX fuel filter

Alloy surge tank with pump and filter mounted on plate

Fuel cell about 30 ltr and lift pump

all conected with stainless braided teflon lines, all parts purchased new

$700

ARE cooler, 600x300x100 Bar and plate, 2.5" inlet, 3" outler,

anyone that knows ARE stuff know it is top quality, with cast end tanks for optimum flow etc, barely a mark on the cooler

$800

ARE 40mm radiator, duel pass cross flow, fits my 32, not sure if 33 etc are the same, includes large themo fan (15" ?)

$600

R33 RB25 gearbox, good contition still shifts smooth as, includes slave cyl

$1000

OS tripple plate clutch, clutch was used but I put new plates through it, includes flywheel, pressure plate, etc

$500

Conversion kit to put R33 box in R32 includes modified 1 piece tail shaft, modified gearbox mount

$100

Also have cooler piping in 2.5" and 3'' stainless, painted silver with tial BOV, and inlet pipe, 4" with big K&N filter can can include some of this if you buy multiple parts.

Motec M800 ECU, with custom wiring loom for the engine, AEM CDI unit, Bosch external coils and leads, Motec has wide band lambda enabled and comes wilth all sensors, looms, plugs etc. This will do almost anything you require of it on any engine. $4500

AIM Pista data logger/dash, this unit replaces all your gauges in the car, full graphic displace and interfaces with ecu via Can bus. Does lap times/track mapping, shift light warnings etc. Comes with lap timer, speed senor, 2 x temp probes and everything else you need see http://www.aimsportsystems.com.au/mxl_system.html

$1700

Blitz Duel SBC spec R boost controller, as new, $500

All parts are still in car so only have these photos.

Prices listed are fairly firm, and for those that have done these mods will know they are probably at least half of what it costs to get done.

Dyno sheet attached of what the car did on the roller at about 1.4 bar boost

Please contact me by email [email protected]

post-429-1250065828_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250065908_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250065971_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250066010_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250066088_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, thats the starting cost for the unit, then add your looms, sensors, upgrades. The cost inlcludes the CDI unit, coils and all looms are made to suit your Std RB20-25-26. Includes the wideband lamda upgrade so you can monitor your AFR accurately and log them.

May go a little lower but it is not one of the parts I especially wont to sell as I know it will do anything that I require of it in the future and the replacement cost will be a lot more than I will get for it.

are you flexable on the motec?

Trade they are under 3 grand to buy the unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do Built RB25/26 engine for 5k

Motec M800 looms CDI and all the senrsors coild etc for 4k

Will include tailshaft etc with gearbox if someone needs it for a conversion

Aim Dash, $1500

Will do deal if someone wonts multiply parts and willing to look at swaping stock engine setup, thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Matt, Link pointed to the 2x IGN power sources from the car as a likely issue, and sure enough pin 31 in the loom does not have power when IGN is on (24 does). So at the ECU, (and this is probably the case for R32 as well as C34) most of the ECU loom goes through the firewall behind the blower motor and there are 2 plugs (of 3 in the junction box) which go up and under the dash, the third plug heads under the carpet to places unknown (likely a body to dash loom joint) So, I started to follow that problem through yesterday. Like Johnny (and R32) I assumed that power was supplied through the 2 connectors near the left headlight so I spent some time pulling the intake etc off and cleaning of 400,000klm of dirt and oil leaks and checking those pins, but there was nothing related to the engine parts or ignition fuses there (and no purple with white trace wire in either side of the connectors) Given that the wire didn't seem to go via the engine bay, I then checked there is continuity from Pin 31 to the second connector to confirm no wiring issue in the ECU loom (it looked likely, given how much that has been hacked up over the years!). The pin marked with the purple dot is the other end of the wire to Pin 31 Then I check for IGN power in the dash loom side of that connector with the key on. Nothing. Given that loom goes up and underneath the top of the dash there is no tracing it without taking the dash out, so I went to the driver's side to see if I can find the other end of that (I'm expecting to get to big body junction boxes after I pull enough apart). However, to get to those functions, I had to pull the covers off the drivers side, I'm pretty sure the problem is in this pic Yep, factory remote start (bottom right), local immobiliser (middle) surrounded by 20 years of butchery. Plan is to totally remove the remote start and immobiliser (I think I will lose remote central locking temporarily as a result) to remove all the suspect stuff given I have other more modern security in the car It's gonna take a while, and it is both cold and uncomfortable out in the shed, not looking forward to it.
    • Hey team,  The clutch on my newly bought 25 swapped r32 feels average and sticks half way. Went to go order a new clutch master but it does not look like the ones that suit the one that’s in the car…    does anyone know what clutch master is this just by looking ?  (The feed is on the side rather than the bottom like the ones the pop up online)  thanks guys new to the RB scene so any help is appreciated cheers !!
    • Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...   I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!   So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.   My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!
    • That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p
    • Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better.  It's a new SAU service.
×
×
  • Create New...