Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all!

Time to sell all the random accessories laying around my garage.

Pickup is available from Carlingford NSW, how ever if u pay the extra for postage more then happy to safely package and post it!

Feel free to PM me for more pictures or info on any items.

Apexi Boost gauge EL II series.

Used but in perfect condition. Is a 60mm Electric gauge and looks amazing at night.

Costs $300 new

$150 NOTE the bottom picture is the actual gauge. The gauge has peak and recall. Top picture is to show EL backlight..

191680-apexi-el2-boost-meter-apex-b.jpg

BU3o6w2kKGrHgoOKjYEjlLmYLs0BKbvGrwq.jpg

Mazda 3 Pop up screen and accessories

This pop up screen kit includes DVD player and tv tuner. First of all I will be willing to separate the accessories if anyone wants them.

The screen and DVD are in perfect condition and work fine, however the TV tuner is really fiddly and I found it hard to get decent reception in my area.

DVD player is Soundstream and very slimline and fits perfectly at the back of your glove box.

If someone buys the screen and acc. Im happy to donate my time and help for the install in their car.

All up spent around $ 950 on all the components. **NOTE SCREEN ONLY SUITS MAZDA 3**

$650 for the lot OR

$550 for the screen

$110 for the DVD player

$50 for the tuner

P6010299.jpg

P6010301.jpg

P6010304.jpg

P6010307.jpg

Gizmo Shift LIght.

I have two shift lights. One is a carbon fiber, the other is an anodized blue. Which ever one the buyer wants I'l take the other for my mazda!

Heres a link for the carbon fiber : DSII 'Touch' Shift Light by Gizzmo Electronics

And a link for the anodised blue: Dual Stage Shift Light

Both are in as new condition!

Prices on website are American but they sell in autobarn for $127

$85

DualStage2.jpg

DSII_large.jpg

HKS turbo Timer

This is the old school HKS turbo timer. Works fine had it in my old R33.

$20 ONO

BU3vPQ2kKGrHgoOKjsEjlLmUU31BKbvHRQi.jpg

Buddy Club Turbo Timer

I bought this timer 2nd hand around 1 month ago. Buyer didn't tell me it takes a 4 digit code to get it to work.

Since I don't have the code its just an expensive clock/voltage gauge! If someone can find out the factory code or how to reset it then its a perfectly good turbo timer

So be warned about the code! heres a link to the product: Buddy Club Secu-Timer

$40 ONO

P8100349.jpg

Tacho and Shift Light

Have a black face tacho and shift light. Bought from autobarn a year or so ago. Looks really sporty and is in fairly good condition

Paid $250 for it.

$100--can't find any pics of it lit up online. looks like these gauges exept its bigger and u can set shift light point.

Will wire up and take pics if serious buyer requests...

3369196293_7db46c5200.jpg

First In Best Dressed....

Gizmo Shift Light $85 including postage to vic 3178? will take the carbon fiber one

EDIT: will you sell both? mate wants one as well

has the shift light sold (carbon fiber one)?? if not ill pick up whenever your ready , im also in sydney pm me.

Edited by Hiroshima Screamer

ALL PMS REPLIED

Carbon shift light is sold.. blue one left but its much bigger then it looks in the picture and comes with no stands.. will take a decent offer on it.

Both turbo timers come with everything needed to work...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...