Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

I've just read the topic at top about the oils to use on your vehicle, but I'm still confused on what to use.

First of all my vehicle idles above 1000rev's in the morning wen its cold. Seems like my mechanic over filled my engine. Since I've got the car it seems like the car didn't burn any of the oil. It's still above the H line.

It's a road car but I'm thinking of making it a track car as well.

Can anyone think or tell me what's the best oil to use.

I tend to get confused on this so much, fact is so much information around that you don't know which one to take.

Thank You

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283262-oil-for-my-gtr-r32/
Share on other sites

With RBs its ok for the oil level to be slightly above H as most of us track go'ers overfill anyway. Depends on your budget and how much you want to spend every 5k oil change? Ideally a full synthetic 5W-40 or 10W-40 is what you want.

Yeah money doesn't matter to me.

My vehicle done about 96,000km's and i just want a oil that does it job and not wear out my engine.

I'm doing about 5k-7k oil change. What brand is good because I see a lot of brands around.

Thank you.

hey all,

I've just read the topic at top about the oils to use on your vehicle, but I'm still confused on what to use.

First of all my vehicle idles above 1000rev's in the morning wen its cold. Seems like my mechanic over filled my engine. Since I've got the car it seems like the car didn't burn any of the oil. It's still above the H line.

It's a road car but I'm thinking of making it a track car as well.

Can anyone think or tell me what's the best oil to use.

I tend to get confused on this so much, fact is so much information around that you don't know which one to take.

Thank You

That's normal for you car to rev over 1000rpm in the morning, cuz the car is cold. Once the car is warmed up the revs will drop to 1000rpm.

Depending on the condition on your engine...

From my understanding, R32's were made back in the day where Mineral based oils were available and that's what Nissan had use to engineer the car.

A lot of ppl go full synthetic, but a top quality Semi Synthetic would be just as good for the older RB engines.

It's normal for turbo cars to burn a bit of oil, just make sure you do your regular top ups.

Motul Chrono 300V is probably the very best you can get, its a 10w-40 Full Synthetic (but a unique full synth being that it's double ester).. expensive, works out to be about $140 for 6l (only comes in 4l and 2l bottles).

I use Motul 8100 X-Cess, it's a 5w-40 full synth and is about $75 for 5 litres, there is another Motul 8100 that is 10w-40 which is same price roughly.

Motul 4100 Turbolight alot of people here use, its a top quality 10-40w semi synth and its about $50 for 5 litres. Perfect for a street only car imo.

As for cheap alternatives for good full synths, have a look at performancelub.com the Mobil 1 and German Castrol in particular (the Redline on there is a very good full synth, and the Royal Purple XPR is a very good synth as well, the Amsoil another full synth that has a pretty good rep in the states)

G'morning all

Thank you for all the advise guys, i might give the Motul Chrono 300V 10w-40 full Synthetic a go first. See if my car will respond better, if not I'll give the Amsoil a go as well.

BTW do you know where I can get these products? I'm located in Perth.

Thank you very much for the help!

SLinky-{A}

yep, I vote for the motul chrono 300V too. it's a great oil. I have done UOA (used oil analysis) on my old GTR and the results were very good, I've also got some info from motul here on their analysis and as expected it's a great product. expensive but worth it in my opinion.

If money really doesn't matter Redline oils appear to have better HTHS than the Motul 300V, but they seem to be a fair bit more expensive, so i cant see that its really worth it. Much more important than worrying about which oil is worrying about oil starvation and temperature. Before track days i fill the oil up to to bottom of the bendy bit on the dipstick, which is a fair bit above the H mark. I also have an oil cooler and keep a close eye on the temperature, and stop if it gets to 110 degrees.

Hey guys,

Thx again for the information, I'll got my service next week because my car still got warranty.

I'll give the mechanic a call and tell them to order in Motul Chrono 300V 10w-40 full Synthetic.

I'll give updating on how the oil go's.

Thx

SLinky-{A}

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd say the easiest way is, pick up a extended and baffled sump with fittings already welded on. Here is an example, it has 3 x -10 fittings  https://shop.maatouksracing.com.au/products/rb-extended-and-baffled-sump
    • hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.
    • From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)... 
    • Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/
    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
×
×
  • Create New...