N/a R33 Vs N/a R34

[GTR-32U]

i have been in a sprinter with a 4age in it. they go pretty well. although they still handle like an old car unless you are prepaired to throw some coin at it for new suspension. i haven't been in a NA skyline so i couldn't say if it would 'mop the floor with it', but they would be capable of very high 14's or low 15's (depending on tyres).

only downside is that while they put out decent power (141kw or whatever it is), it is all very high in the rev range. low in the rev range that aren't very quick (kind of like hondas with v-tec). as a comparison, over the 1/4 mile they are only about as quick as a SSS pulsar which only puts out 105kw.

Well true with the AE86 parts, However there is no shortage with suspension components for them. Coilovers,sway bars etc are plentiful. A jap spec sprinter with the 100 kw 4age will beat an NA skyline.So one with the 20 valve should Mop the floor with it. Just look at the power to weight ratio and that should give more of an indication. Sprinters weigh in around 900 - 950 kgs. Factor in a 134 hp ( standard ) to 160 hp ( 20 valve ) engine and then all of a sudden you got a fairly respectable power to weight ratio. But throw some windy roads into the mix and its all over, Sprinter first-daylight second

[boofhead1234]

r32 with a rb25de, set of extractors, coilpacks, gtr lsd, and a power fc.... dicks both r33 and r34 by car lengths

Yeah, but it is so hard to find a R32 with an RB25DE. There isnt even one on carsales.com.au

does anyone know if engine swaps are allowed on the vic P plate rules? highly doubt it...

[sydking]

i also must say that the rb25de is not suited for awd.

if it was r33 rwd vs r34 rwd the r34 would win every time.

whats make you say its not suited to AWD?

[R34 -_-]

whats make you say its not suited to AWD?

Iv read it on some website that talks about all the skyline engine specifications and that was a comment they made on the GT-4.

And besides we all know you loose power with four wheels, make a GT-R Rwd and you gain a fair bit more power make a GTT or GTST Awd and you loose power to the two extra wheels. Non turbo 4wd?? whats the point unless you chuck off road tyres on it and go for a drive in the mud lol, but seriously the only good thing i could see out of it would be if you were launching of the line WHEN IT WAS WET, in the dry it would be almost useless.

Dyno a GT-4 and then dyno a GT or GT-V and you'l see what i mean.

my 2 cents.

[Turk1]

But the AWD is all about traction? Not just about take offs..around the bends and off the takeoffs a AWD is going to eat the RWD.

[boofhead1234]

another question, what is the difference between the series 1 and series 2 r33? Here is what i know so far:

- Driver and passenger airbags standard in series 2

- Different headlights with improved reflectors

- Reshaped bonnet

- Option of A-LSD

what other changes were there between series 1 and 2?

[dori34]

get a non turbo supra jza80!

i had both r32 with r33 s1 rb25de motor & recently r34 gt rb25de and the r34 does feel quicker

[AYW550]

Iv read it on some website that talks about all the skyline engine specifications and that was a comment they made on the GT-4.

And besides we all know you loose power with four wheels, make a GT-R Rwd and you gain a fair bit more power make a GTT or GTST Awd and you loose power to the two extra wheels. Non turbo 4wd?? whats the point unless you chuck off road tyres on it and go for a drive in the mud lol, but seriously the only good thing i could see out of it would be if you were launching of the line WHEN IT WAS WET, in the dry it would be almost useless.

Dyno a GT-4 and then dyno a GT or GT-V and you'l see what i mean.

my 2 cents.

actually, i have a gt4 r34 and thanks to the attessa system, there is no "power loss to the two extra wheels". its completely rwd until the computer detects the rear wheels losing grip, then it automaticaly engages the front wheel drive until traction resumes...so while a rwd only skyline might start to spin its tires on take off EVEN WHEN DRY, the gt4 will lock up and launch, ,not to mention murdering the 2wd in the corners

[boofhead1234]

get a non turbo supra jza80!

i had both r32 with r33 s1 rb25de motor & recently r34 gt rb25de and the r34 does feel quicker

Whats jza80 mean...?

And how much quicker does the r34 feel, and how does it achieve more power with the same engine (and more weight)?

Also, any reason why you keep getting the non-turbo skylines? P plate rules?

So can we please go back to my question, the difference between series 1 and 2? thx

[KezR33]

Get a Supra or 300ZX.

I used to have an NA 33 and their is a significant difference in power. Can easily get 150rwkw with only extractors and a full exhaust.

For the record, a JZA80 is the mkiv Supra, the same one as in my avatar.

[GTS4WD]

R34. They are newer, the NEO is a great engine, 34's are 5 stud (better choice of wheels) and as they are a newer car than the 33, chances are they are less thrashed and there is going to be less parts that need replaceing compaired to the ageing 33. Plus they look better than the 33.

What you would really want is an NA RB in an S13

OR

NA 32 and throw the diffrence in price at it;

Suspension

Brakes

Exhaust

Diff

Seat

etc. and you have yourself an awesome NA set up!

Keep an eye out for RB30DE's (double overhead cam 3L made by mateing the 2.5L head on the 3L bottom end) being sold.. they are getting more common and its a great engine set up

[GTS4WD]

Iv read it on some website that talks about all the skyline engine specifications and that was a comment they made on the GT-4.

And besides we all know you loose power with four wheels, make a GT-R Rwd and you gain a fair bit more power make a GTT or GTST Awd and you loose power to the two extra wheels. Non turbo 4wd?? whats the point unless you chuck off road tyres on it and go for a drive in the mud lol, but seriously the only good thing i could see out of it would be if you were launching of the line WHEN IT WAS WET, in the dry it would be almost useless.

Dyno a GT-4 and then dyno a GT or GT-V and you'l see what i mean.

my 2 cents.

hmmm.. are you sure about all of this?

Learn how the ATTESSA system works before you comment.

ATTESSA (as in GTS4 and GTR) is not a constant four wheel drive system.

The car is powered by the rear wheels (as a normal RWD would be) untill it looses traction or reaches a certain amount of G forces.

From here, it uses sensors at all four wheels, steering angle, speed and G forces and sends power through a transfer case on the side of the gearbox to power the front wheels.

From here, the car is driven by all four wheels while it does not have traction.

Once traction has been regained, the trasferbox disengauges sending power to the front wheels and all power is sent to only the rear wheels again.

So yes, while the front wheels are being driven, you do loose power. But because 95% of the time the car has traction, all power is sent to only the rear wheels, acting as any other RWD.

And sorry mate, but launching a car in the wet is not the only good thing about it. Launch it in the dry, and watch the needle dance. Go for a spirited drive through the corners, watch the needle dance. As soon as shit gets hairy.. it will keep your arse out of that tree. The only trick is you have to keep your foot flat which is VERY un-nerving.

I can speak from experince.

Thats my 2 cents.

Edited August 16, 2009 by GTS4WD

[WESTWD]

G'day,

i personally woul not go for a 300zx..

im getting a R34 N/A in under 2 weeks time...N/A as im also on red p's.

sure the increased torque sounds nice, but they are heavier, an older car and from what i have heard...really un-reliable. on top of that, they apparently have a lot of things go wrong and to top it all off, the parts to replace the ones that die in the ass cost a lot.

These cars have a high up-keep, not so much on the N/A compared to the TT, but still something to be careful of.

Personally, i would STAY AWAY from a 300zx.

Anyone, feel free to correct me on anything.

Owen.

[mad082]

r32 with a rb25de, set of extractors, coilpacks, gtr lsd, and a power fc.... dicks both r33 and r34 by car lengths

give the same mods to a 33 or 34 and then see how it goes. the r32 with a rb25 isn't really any lighter than a 33, yet the engine puts out less power than that of a rb25 from a r33 (i think the r32 rb25 is only 132kw). unless of course you are talking about just putting a r33 rb25 into a r32, but in which case the car is still going to be very similar in weight still.

But the AWD is all about traction? Not just about take offs..around the bends and off the takeoffs a AWD is going to eat the RWD.

sort of. the awd will get you off the line better, if you get a good launch. however it is easier to bog it down off the line in an awd and get a bad launch. out of corners a NA isn't exactly a super power plant. it's not going to be frying the tyres (might get a touch of wheelspin, but won't just burn them up) so the awd isn't going to be doing that much. plus you have the added weight of the atessa system (around 100kg), so that means you have to brake earlier, can't take the corner as fast (not as much latteral grip due to the extra weight) and have more chance of understeer, as well as slower acceleration once you actually have traction.

another question, what is the difference between the series 1 and series 2 r33? Here is what i know so far:

- Driver and passenger airbags standard in series 2

- Different headlights with improved reflectors

- Reshaped bonnet

- Option of A-LSD

what other changes were there between series 1 and 2?

there is the rear wing. s1.5 (1995 models which are a mix and match of s1 and s2) and s2 have the tall wing, where as s1 have the small wing.

front bar for s2 is different (has the round fog light and indicator)

interior is different colour (trim on seats and doors)

dash surround is slightly different

nicer looking steering wheel

a few parts of the engine are different, such as TPS, afm, coils (have the ignitor built in where as s1 have a seperate ignitor) and on the turbo models the s2 has a different turbo (same size and still ceramic exhaust wheel but a plastic compressor wheel on s2 and steel on s1. it makes it spool up a fraction quicker)

and a few other little things. there is no major differences in the engine or anything like that.

[mad082]

G'day,

i personally woul not go for a 300zx..

im getting a R34 N/A in under 2 weeks time...N/A as im also on red p's.

sure the increased torque sounds nice, but they are heavier, an older car and from what i have heard...really un-reliable. on top of that, they apparently have a lot of things go wrong and to top it all off, the parts to replace the ones that die in the ass cost a lot.

These cars have a high up-keep, not so much on the N/A compared to the TT, but still something to be careful of.

Personally, i would STAY AWAY from a 300zx.

Anyone, feel free to correct me on anything.

Owen.

they are no older than a r32.

not really that much more unreliable than a skyline, and parts aren't that much more expensive. there is just less aftermarket following. that said, because they are an australian delivered car, insurance will be cheaper, and parts slightly easier to get through nissan (less chance of getting some idiot saying that they can't get the part because the car is an import)

[mad082]

please ban and delete this spanning cum stain

[Turk1]

Sigh.

[mad082]

ok, now my post looks really stupid, LOL

[SKiT_R31]

I agree with the above post (GTS4WD), speaking from experience as i own an R33 GTS4 (as a daily).

There is no power loss from the 4WD system as written, however there is >100kg more weight. That said, they are fantastic, like other n/a's they have the 4.36 diff gears, they are damn zippy, pissing down with rain, stomp it and you just zoom off, no spin (just a slip light..) flat to the floor around corners, they are just awesome to drive.

I have had a turbo R33, i have a 150rwkw+ R31 (rb30de) and a powerful turbo (rb30e+t) r31 wagon (my towcar).

Of all of them, the R33 is the most fun you can have legally (i.e. no sideways/smokestorms or speeding) which is why it suits me for a daily car (used to drive my wagon, but when you put the foot down in boost with 245's, it just lights them up and its takes too much self control... and fuel...)

R33 you limiter in first = 50kmph, ie. speed limit, limiter in second is 85.... its so smooth, and it just pulls in the wet with no wheelspin. I wouldn't want to own an N/A skyline that wasnt 4wd (excluding 31 ).

once i sell my wagon ill be putting on a stockish turbo setup (powerfc+vg30+r34cooler & piping, for a tame ~ 180kW atw) but it really doesn't need it, I'm just out of control, and like to have power on tap (since the grip is available), i bought the gts4 because i fell in love with the 4wd, and the car (its tidy as, and was cheap), and i wanted a 4 door.

Back in my P days, if i was in the position of you mainlanders and had the money, I'd be sourcing an R34 4 door N/A, they have a lot of bottle necks which if you opened up you could gain a decent amount of power with the engine looking bog stock.

For starters N/A r34's have a shit exhaust cam (emissions?), so i'd either fit a turbo ex cam, for the lift, or mild aftermarkets, shave about 20thou off the head, colder plugs, cooler thermostat and oversize TB with an SAFC/PFC, and your usual exhaust (keep it quiet and no canon, maybe factory 25det) and you could have some decent go, n/a and look standard (if your capable/can afford the mods, they are fairly cheap and effective though, on a healthy motor)

otherwise subaru liberty bilstien, these are a nice car, the 2.5L, reasonable power, reasonable handling, they're quite a happy car to putt in, but still, a skyline would be better...

but your on a skyline forum

Edited August 17, 2009 by SKiT_R31

[mad082]

oh i just thought of another car. my mate has just gotten one and put a supercharger on it. a lexus IS/altezza.