Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NISSAN SKYLINE, R33 4 DOOR SEDAN, 1994 MODEL, RB25DET MANUAL, 85 000kms!

Car is immaculate inside and out. Never drifted, dragged or seen a racetrack. Would be a perfect daily driver, weekend drifter or sprints car.

All parts have been installed in the last 12months but would have less then 5000kms on them, some less then a couple of hundred!

Reason for sale:

I have owned this car for a couple of years and have hardly driven it at all. 12months ago I decided to modify it with the intention of taking it drifting but never got there. Currently just sits in the shed unused, and I cant see me having the time in the near future so would rather have the on my home loan.

Body:

Full final konnexion body kit

And, factory front bumper and 4 door side skirts (rare)

NO RUST

Immaculate paint

Tinted windshields on all windows (rare)

Engine:

85000 kms serviced every 5000kms with motul oil

Standard boost, NEVER BOOSTED PAST 7psi

Greddy FMIC kit

Apexi power intake

40mm alloy radiator

Full mandrel 3” turbo back exhaust including high flow cat and twin hotdogs at the rear

Driveline:

NPC 5 puck ceramic button clutch

OS Giken 2 way mechanical lsd 4.3:1 ratio

Suspension:

HSD HR series coilovers 9kg front, 7kg rear

Lock spacers

Boxed in castor rod brackets

Hicas lock bar

Interior:

‘Personal’ steering wheel

Apexi boost gauge

Nismo gearnob

Kenwood cd/usb/mp3 player, 4 channel amp and pioneer speakers

Wheels:

2x 17x10+20 mesh (4 and 5 stud) Federal 595 @95%

2x 17x9 +35 Khumo Ectsa @90%

2x 17x8 +35 stern

2x 16x7 r32 stockos

2x 25mm wheel spacers

Also included:

Standard 4.11 lsd in housing

2 spare sets of front hubs, bearings studs

Standard airbox

Plus what ever other spares I have laying around

Selling everything with the car and no I will no sell shit like wheels separately. However I will sell for $500 less minus 17x10 stitch wheels or 2 way diff.

*May swap for a standard or light tune s13 or r32 but would need a substantial cash adjustment my way*

Price: $14000

[email protected]

pm or 0418 537 181

post-15190-1250223873_thumb.jpg

post-15190-1250223914_thumb.jpg

post-15190-1250223931_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283360-r33-4door-turbo-manual-imaculate/
Share on other sites

update! details i forgot to mention and more pics!

Just paid 6 months qld rego. cars easily rwc other then 2 way mech diff (std lsd supplied) and height. (coil overs are height adjustable)

Located: Caboolture QLD (northside of brisbane)

post-15190-1250738051_thumb.jpg

post-15190-1250738074_thumb.jpg

post-15190-1250738096_thumb.jpg

post-15190-1250738119_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...