Jump to content
SAU Community

Transmission Troubles

Timage

By Timage,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Timage Apprentice

Timage

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

After finally getting my S2 Stagea RS4 running properly after 3 months of ownership by replacing the coil packs, I've got another problem. Driving home on the highway today the A/T light came on and the gearbox would no longer shift into overdrive, so at 100km/h I was doing almost 4000rpm. By using the tip-tronic I could see that it was indeed in 4th, not 3rd. Jumping off the highway to the streets presented another symptom. The car would not pull at all, and it feels exactly like driving a manual and holding the clutch in half-way. This still occurred in tip-tronic mode in all gears.

I did the self-diagnosis thing and the A/T light flashed through 13 times and didn't pause on any of the flashes.

Am I screwed?

Background information just in case:

Bought the car in April with a dead coil pack. Replaced that coil with factory item in June which started to die 3 days later. Replaced all coils with splitfire items two Sundays ago. Installed a pod filter last Sunday (still don't know why). Everything else on the car is completely standard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283404-transmission-troubles/
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

Did it only do it once or is it ok once you turned ignition off/on ? My Skyline did similar thing once, then never again. If it only did it once good chance it is only electrical.

Could be solenoids or a bad sensor/connection.

If it was my car, with or without your issue, as with all imports where fluids are seldom or never changed in Japan, I would get auto serviced, fluid/filter changed/ bands tightened etc, if it hasnt been done recently + get your valve body shift kitted (stage 1 is adequate), with new solenoids.

Timage Apprentice

Timage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did it only do it once or is it ok once you turned ignition off/on ? My Skyline did similar thing once, then never again. If it only did it once good chance it is only electrical.

Could be solenoids or a bad sensor/connection.

If it was my car, with or without your issue, as with all imports where fluids are seldom or never changed in Japan, I would get auto serviced, fluid/filter changed/ bands tightened etc, if it hasnt been done recently + get your valve body shift kitted (stage 1 is adequate), with new solenoids.

Just drove it then and it was perfectly fine. Car had a full service and inspection in June by a mob familiar with imports and it was all fine (except for the coil pack). I'll go down to a local automatic place tomorrow and see what they say. Roughly how much are those shift kits?

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

shift kits are around $400 from memory, plenty of threads about them throughout the auto and stagea forums. MV automatics in Adelaide are the only ones who do the R34/S2 'B' (RE4R01B) boxes last time I checked. Basically send them your valve body, they modify it and send it back, but best removed and installed by a 3rd party Auto shop if you are not in Adelaide.

Basically they tighten up the gear shifts, dramatically, remove the slushiness, and consequently reduce friction/temperature inside the box.

If it happens again, pull over, turn it off, restart.

Timage Apprentice

Timage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
shift kits are around $400 from memory, plenty of threads about them throughout the auto and stagea forums. MV automatics in Adelaide are the only ones who do the R34/S2 'B' (RE4R01B) boxes last time I checked. Basically send them your valve body, they modify it and send it back, but best removed and installed by a 3rd party Auto shop if you are not in Adelaide.

Basically they tighten up the gear shifts, dramatically, remove the slushiness, and consequently reduce friction/temperature inside the box.

If it happens again, pull over, turn it off, restart.

Interesting. I think one of the local Stagea's near me had that done (Gold Coast) so I'll stalk him one day and ask him. So it's basically a small issue (solenoid, sensor) and the gearbox isn't functioning properly as a way of protecting itself?

RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted

limp mode i think its called. Solenoids are letting you know to get it checked out. happened to me, turned out i had a small leak, temps went up real fast.

i got it serviced and put a shift kit it. shift kit all it did was make the bands work under more stress along with the clutch packs, and everything was over worked and stretched.

basically couldnt drive it. now full rebuild.

get some one to look over it properly and has some good advice :huh:

fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted

My last series 2 wore out the clutch packs in second. it would occasionally flare on the 1st to 2nd shift when launching hard,and after a while would then go into limp mode and the A/T light would come on on the dash. pull over and restart,and the light would go out.

eventually the clutches wore right out and I lost ALL drive one afternoon on my way home from work.

Had the box rebuilt by CATS in alexandria using internals from an R34 GTT box. apparently the clutch packs in the skyline boxes are slightly larger.

my current car is beginning to show the same symptoms even on std boost,so it looks like that box will be coming out before long as well. :huh:

Justin...

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

No pauses between the flashes on self-diagnostics means no fault code is showing up. This almost certainly rules out a faulty sensor causing the issue (unless the sensor is faulty but still reading within normal range - but if this were the case it wouldn't trigger the A/T light).

There are a few places that offer shift kits on the RE4 trans. SA RACE (Adelaide Transmission & Diff Specialists in the white pages) at Holden Hill in SA can do them and they offer a few different options depending on what you're after. Highly recommended (as are MV Automatics - I had one fitted by them to my previous s2 and it was great). Not sure if a shift kit is all that good as far as the extra pressure exerted on the driveline, but mine did last 2 years without issues and was still working fine when I sold it.

There is at least one place in Brisbane that will do them as well, but the name escapes me.

If you get it serviced by a good auto transmission workshop, they should be able to identify any potential problems at the same time. There is a difference between a proper transmission service and just flushing the oil.

Hope you get it fixed. I've had an auto trans go kaput on a silvia and its not fun, nor is it cheap to fix.

Timage Apprentice

Timage

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Taking it down to get it checked today. I'll get him to check the computer and see if that A/T code is stored. I'm not sure what is meant exactly by flaring, but sometimes under heavy load it will ride the clutch between first and second for a good couple of seconds. Haven't had that issue again since friday fortunately. Will report how it goes.

Timage Apprentice

Timage

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Taking it down to get it checked today. I'll get him to check the computer and see if that A/T code is stored. I'm not sure what is meant exactly by flaring, but sometimes under heavy load it will ride the clutch between first and second for a good couple of seconds. Haven't had that issue again since friday fortunately. Will report how it goes.

Well taking it down to these other people did nothing as they couldn't even get into the ECU to see what the code was and they didn't want to take it apart for a look. They were also rude as hell. Stay away from Burleigh Automatics.

The problem happened again today, and like last time, happened after about 15min driving on the highway. One mechanic said the filters in the transmission may be clogging up and causing the issue. Could it be that simple?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Duncan
      Starting again

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • Ozdavroz
      Starting again

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • GTSBoy
      R32 Nostalgia

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • Duncan
      R32 Nostalgia

      By Duncan · Posted

      They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...