Is This A Good Boost Controller?

[Torques]

Hello,

I am looking for an electronic boost controller but have no idea what to look for.

It will be used on my GTST with (at the moment) standard turbo.

I'd like the unit to:

1. Display boost
   
2. Display max reached boost
   
3. overboost / scramble mode
   
4. reliable operation
   

From the looks of it I fancy the Blitz, since it displays a boost curve and all kind of other stuff.

However I'm afraid it might be a bit too small to be of real use.

I could get my hands on any of these one:

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/electonic/..._ctr/sbc_id.htm

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/electr...oost/evc_s.html

And the other ones I have attached.

Thanks for any hint/advice ...

Edited August 14, 2009 by Torques

[paulr33]

how much do you want to spend

boost controllers are basically set and forget

once you set it properly

and you floor it, guess what, you reach max boost

so any electronic controller is really suitable

i mean you spend $800+ on a boost controller

for 3 bar boost and scramble and display etc

but what on earth for ???

scramble is pointless, if you can run 12psi safely, then run it all the time, if you can 21psi safely, run it all the time etc

if you want all the fandangle crap get the apexi aVC-R but be prepared to pay $$$ for it

and be prepared to spend time setting it up properly and tuning it

ive got the powerfc boost control kit which is the same parts as the AVCR but without the screen and its fine

its an add-on kit to the apexi PFC stand alone ECU so it works and plugs in no mess no fuss

i had an old 2nd hand HKS EVC III and it worked awesome ,cheap simple, electronic, overboost protection

no fancy screen, no fandangle, nice and cheap, set and forget

[paulr33]

the main difference with the older EVC was price and the basic control unit, no fancy screen

you are paying premium $ for the screen

[Torques]

the main difference with the older EVC was price and the basic control unit, no fancy screen

you are paying premium $ for the screen

Hi there ...

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

I thought of the scramble/overboost feature as a way of going shortly over the limit with the standard turbo charger.

In addition I thought it would be nice driving with lower boost in rain/snow conditions.

So a unit with different settings would come in handy.

But I agree you definably don't need all the gimmicks, especially when the display is as tiny as with the blitz.

I'll have a look at the HKS, it looks quite functional ... maybe just what I need?

[Goi-turbo]

Hello. Good electronic regulator it Apexi AVC-R. Functions are promoted by boost similarly can regulate on transmissions. Many useful functions.

[Yo-Yo]

I had the greddy profec B specII on my old R34 and it did the job that was required of it and It was one of the cheaper options at the time, personally one of the nicer looking ones to me also

once I got the settings right I pretty much left it alone to do it's thing, where I installed it was easy to keep out of sight

[Ultimategtr]

Gizzmo MS-IBC. Took me about 1 hour to hook it up, and set the boost.

Holds it rock steady! Has 6 boost levels and a scramble as well.

I like it because it JUST controls boost whenever i put my foot down. Personally, i dont like the extra functions of the other ebc's.. eg gear selective boosting etc as when you have problems, you will have more places to look at, whcih means more headaches, but thats just my opinion.

For the stock turbo, any ebc should do the trick. Its only when you have a big turbo setup that you need more precise control, eg dual solenoid controllers, etc.

It really comes down to how much you want to spend.

Google the top brands and look for comparisons, cos thats what i did.

[paulr33]

there are issues by going shortly over the limit of the standard turbocharger

the first is it wont make any more power past 12psi, and it just throws out tons of heat

and second is it puts the turbocharger and engine at great risk, the shaft speed can cause it to fail

and the excessive heat can cause the exhaust wheel to fail (as its ceramic)

so you dont get any extra power and you put it all at great risk for the sake of having a "scramble" or "high boost" mode

you are far better off having the car and controller set at whatever safe limit you can run, 11psi is prefect on the stock turbo.

when you drive in the rain or snow, just drive like a normal person does, don't floor it and drive easily

the turbocharger will only wind up and put out power if you stomp on the accel pedal

so guess what, if you floor it, its going to come on boost and give you some power, so dont when its when or just go easy

[boostn0199]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HDI-Super-Electroni...id=p3286.c0.m14

what you guys think of this boost controller looks prety good from the video

[chrisR34GTT]

^^ I have this installed in my car. It is a nice no BS unit and comes with a boost gauage (bit bright at night though).

Yo Yo: was it easy running the wiring into that compartment? I only found that hidey spot last week, thought it was fuse location, so never bothered to look lol Would like to get my controller unit out sight of the fuzz.

[boostn0199]

^^ I have this installed in my car. It is a nice no BS unit and comes with a boost gauage (bit bright at night though).

Yo Yo: was it easy running the wiring into that compartment? I only found that hidey spot last week, thought it was fuse location, so never bothered to look lol Would like to get my controller unit out sight of the fuzz.

yeah this unit luks good to hide sumwhere and adjust it den just worry about the rest off the gauge i like how has a digital reading on it aswell handy when wanting to check the boost when foot down.

[SysLink67]

Does anyone know what the deal is with the solenoid? I get that the excessive amount for gimmicks and screens is not worth it but doesn't some of these more expensive EBS have dual solenoids etc?

I run an IDIII, it has all the fruit but I mainly got it believing that the dual solenoids ensure accurate boost holding.

Any light?

[bradsm87]

Blitz dual solenoid beats all the others hands down. This is the 13th post down and I thought this was VERY common knowledge.

The latest iteration is the SBC i-D Spec R

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev...history_state0=

[RBwhatever]

I use the greddy profecB spec II. Works a treat and wasn't difficult to tune either. If you really want to you could rig up a momentary switch for it to switch Hi-Low mode but what the heck for?

I ditched my boost gauge and just use the profec as the boost display.

[Torques]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the advice ... I thought it might be 'safe' going a few seconds over the limit.

But maybe I'm just looking for an excuse buying a larger turbo

If 11PSI is fine, I should be running 11PSI all the way.

Do you have any idea how many RPMs the turbo needs for 11PSI?

I have placed a bid on the following attached HKS.

If it's not working out I'll go for a Profec I guess.

there are issues by going shortly over the limit of the standard turbocharger

the first is it wont make any more power past 12psi, and it just throws out tons of heat

and second is it puts the turbocharger and engine at great risk, the shaft speed can cause it to fail

and the excessive heat can cause the exhaust wheel to fail (as its ceramic)

so you dont get any extra power and you put it all at great risk for the sake of having a "scramble" or "high boost" mode

you are far better off having the car and controller set at whatever safe limit you can run, 11psi is prefect on the stock turbo.

when you drive in the rain or snow, just drive like a normal person does, don't floor it and drive easily

the turbocharger will only wind up and put out power if you stomp on the accel pedal

so guess what, if you floor it, its going to come on boost and give you some power, so dont when its when or just go easy

Edited August 15, 2009 by Torques

[Torques]

Hi there ...

What's the difference dual solenoid compared to single?

And I like the Blitz as well, though I think it's too tiny a display.

Hmm ... decisions, decisions ...

Blitz dual solenoid beats all the others hands down. This is the 13th post down and I thought this was VERY common knowledge.

The latest iteration is the SBC i-D Spec R

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev...history_state0=

[Yo-Yo]

Yo Yo: was it easy running the wiring into that compartment? I only found that hidey spot last week, thought it was fuse location, so never bothered to look lol Would like to get my controller unit out sight of the fuzz.

oh you mean the coin slot? I always kept spare change in the ashtray anyway so it was a logical choice to put something else, you have to be careful not to damage the tabs that hold it in place if you wanna take it out, I also had to cut the back of the coin slot out enough to fit the wires through

wiring wasn't too bad, didn't have any issues with wire/tube length for the profec B specII. All I did was run the wiring underneath the bottom of the dash piece and tucked it on the inside, held in place using plastic tabs and double sided tape

running the wires through the firewall grommet was a bit of a pita as expected

[mad082]

there are issues by going shortly over the limit of the standard turbocharger

the first is it wont make any more power past 12psi, and it just throws out tons of heat

and second is it puts the turbocharger and engine at great risk, the shaft speed can cause it to fail

and the excessive heat can cause the exhaust wheel to fail (as its ceramic)

so you dont get any extra power and you put it all at great risk for the sake of having a "scramble" or "high boost" mode

you are far better off having the car and controller set at whatever safe limit you can run, 11psi is prefect on the stock turbo.

when you drive in the rain or snow, just drive like a normal person does, don't floor it and drive easily

the turbocharger will only wind up and put out power if you stomp on the accel pedal

so guess what, if you floor it, its going to come on boost and give you some power, so dont when its when or just go easy

i am really getting sick of hearing this. the stock turbo WILL make more power above 12psi. i have personally seen it done on back to back dyno runs all the way up to 16psi. there is about a 15kw difference between 13 and 16psi. also i was running 14psi on my 33 and it felt much more powerful than on 11psi. and i know other people running 13 and 14psi who have also seen power gains from the higher boost.

so the turbo will make more power, it just isn't that safe to do it.

so believe me or not, but i know what i saw. and most of the people who say it won't make power over 12psi have never tried it.

[Yo-Yo]

the stock turbo WILL make more power above 12psi.

so the turbo will make more power, it just isn't that safe to do it.

I agree with what you said,

the way I look at it, while the stock turbo will continue to produce more power past 12 psi, the efficiency of the power increase however, will decrease as you raise the boost past 11-12psi

ie; the extra power gains to be had by pushing past 12psi are not worth the risk of added strain on the stock turbo.

All cars are different though, some guys on here will boast about having 14psi+ on stock snails and still going strong, if a turbo is gonna die it will die eventually, but adding extra fuel to the fire isn't going to help the situation imo

hi flow or bolt on replacement ftw if you want to chase the dragons

[bradsm87]

Hi there ...

What's the difference dual solenoid compared to single?

And I like the Blitz as well, though I think it's too tiny a display.

Hmm ... decisions, decisions ...

The dual solenoid controls pressure smoother and more accurately compared to others that sorta end up more 'pulsey'

The SBC i-D series boost controllers have a fairly large screen compared to most others. I'm not referring to the old one (dual-sbc) which does have a very small screen.