Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

As some of you know i tried and failed to sell my much loved GTSt, so instead of giving it away i decided to cancel the rego and build it into a relatively cheap fun track car. This will by no means be a car that i am expecting to compete against the big boys with as it would just end in tears. So it will be mainly aimed at events like Super Lap, SSCC, the MRA series and just kick about track days with friends.

As the car stands it was my daily driver for 3 years and served its purpose well.

lozearlydays.jpg

Soon i took it to its first track day and with the help of Neil i became hooked.

1sttrackday.jpg

and with a little tape wola

nicetapejob.jpg

That was in 07, since then i have just been doing some SAU days, a Bathurst speed weekend and the 08 superlap and i kept it road regoed till now.

superlap08.jpg

BathurstToys.jpg

So far the car has had a little work done to it as below.

Engine:

Std internals

HKS 256 and 264 cams with adjustable HKS cam gear on exh side (VCT remains)

Spitfire coil packs

Plazmaman inlet plenum

Sard 550cc injectors

Walbro in tank fuel pump

Std GTR front mt intercooler

Nismo adj FPR

GT3071R turbo with 700177-5023 cartridge number, it is the un-cropped Garret GT30 turbine housing with no internal gate.

TiAl 38mm external gate

3" turbo back exh with the W/G line plumbed in just before the cat

15 row oil cooler with filter relocation kit

Z32 afm

HKS super suction air filter kit

AVCR boost controller

Apexi power FC

Drivetrain, handling and brakes

5 paddle B/Button clutch

Re shimmed and re sealed std diff

Hicas removal bar

GTR strut brace at the front

GTR lower strut brace at the rear

Bilstien shocks and Whiteline springs ( Sydney kids GB ones )

Selbys adjustable solid swaybars front and rear

Whiteline camber kit front and rear

Whiteline diff alignment kit

Whiteline adj caster bushes

17 super advan rims with Falken RT615 street legal semi slicks 235's on the front and 255's on the rear

Brembo R33 GTR brakes front and rear with braided lines

Std GTR rotors on the rear and RDA slotted rotors on the front

Hawk DC60's pads on the front and HT10's on the rear ( Very good pads, best i have ever used)

Larger master cylinder with bias adjuster

So for this build up the engine will getting removed mainly just be to get the A/C and heater core and lines removed. Tidy up and inspect it (not stripping it) then refit the engine with a new set of Nismo engine mts, alloy radiator and a alt under drive pulley set.

The gearbox is only getting a clutch bypass line, Nismo short shifter, a knob and a Nismo mount.

I have just built a diff for it. I got it out of a S14 housing i think??? (it was just lying around at a mates) and used my std ratios and just re shimmed the center in my housing. I don't know the brand of the diff but it is a 2 way of some breed ?? we will see how it goes. I also fitted a GTR rear cover to get an extra liter of oil and some little cooling fins to try and help the diff survive a little longer and some new whiteline front diff mt bushes.

The brakes and suspension are staying the same just with the addition of front and rear adjustable cambers arms, i have not decided on a brand to use yet so anyone with some experience please post up your comments or i was just looking at the JJR ones???

The interior is where all the action will be happening, it is getting the sunroof removed and welded up and a full roll cage welded into it from Bonds. The interior will cop a few more little additions in the way of some saber gauges and a new steering wheel and D1 quick release.

The wheels and body work will be staying the same at this stage unless i can find a cheap vented bonnet?.

I got home yesterday from work at 10AM after just finishing my fourth night shift and decided it would be a good time to start stripping the car out, i was drunk with fatigue :huh: .

So with the help of a mate two pies and a double espresso dare. I got the gearbox, tail shaft, radiator and engine out. As you can see i had broken the LH engine mount, from what i have seen this is common in R33's.

emptyhole.jpg

endofday1.jpg

Today i was planning on getting the engine in the stand and tidying up my mess and starting to strip the interior out. But i have spent all morning trying to work out how to attach pics in this post ( Gee i hope they work).

Anyways thanks for reading and i will try and up date along the way with pics if i can get any.

Enjoy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283461-my-r33-gtst-project/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Good to see the threads finally up Ryan!!!!

This is going to be a freaking sweet build up, and cant wait to get chopped by it @ the track!

Oh theres a pic of my old r33 @ bathurst with ya! haha

I kinda wish I had the skill and knowledge to do this with my old R33, would have been good, team GTS25t NUGGET!!!!! but I just dont have the time, place, nor skills! haha

Once she's back together Id look at getting some decent semi slicks too!

Im gonna have to come up one weekend, get on the cans and help!

Once she's back together Id look at getting some decent semi slicks too!

Im gonna have to come up one weekend, get on the cans and help!

I hope to get a new set of rubber next year after i have had some time back in it.

Sounds like a plan bud.

Is the soft tow hook an off the shelf item?

Keep the updates coming!

Nar home made bud. It is part of a large tie down strap folded over then stitched together with heavy duty thread at a sailing shop. Then i punched two stainless steel eyelets in it, then wola you have a soft tow strap.

Well did not get much time on it today, but i got the engine in the stand and all tidy. I will have to get some new buttons on the clutch and the flywheel and pressure plate tided up also. The dampener also looks to have a few small cracks appearing in the rubber so i might have to source one of them as well, i will remove it and have a look laters.

The misses helped refit the bonnet :) and the car is back on its own feet.

I got the seats removed and all the rear trimmings off and the sunroof out. All that is left to do is finish off the dash and sort out the A/C, heater lines and the harnesses. Then remove the sound deadener and give it a clean up before it goes away to get the sunroof welded up and the cage fitted.

Just a few shots of the interior too peak at.

day2rear.jpg

day2fwd.jpg

Yay another 33 gtst build...what are you doing cage wise? I really have to start getting mine sorted out soon and keen to see what you do with yours.

I am getting a weld in Bonds kit with extra bits. It will hopefully be finished for the SAU South tack day but i don't know? it will be close.

what front bar is that?

It is a Jet Speed front bar i modified, it was a T type i think?

his cage is sorted :(

Very excited :D

Ok i am hoping that over they next two days i might have the car ready to be sent to the smash repairs, fingers crossed.

I just have a few questions to ask others with purpose built track cars already.

Did you keep the blower fan for some cooling/air circulation in the cabin? I am think of getting rid of it all together.

Did you remove the heater core also? Again i am wanting to remove it as well.

And is it worth welding up the holes in the firewall or just cutting some cover plates and fixing them to the fire wall so they can be removed at a later date if they needed to be?

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...