Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...

Hell yer it does, I need to spend more time in the shed and less time working and stuff. :)

I trial fitted the seat this arvo, I made the rails for the Sparco on the weekend and I just used the Bride rails for the OMP but cause the OMP is a little bit larger in the ass than the Bride I will have to make rails for it also :) .

You can see in the pic I have made the brackets for the steering column and fitted the RPM wheel and the D2 quick release do dar.

While I was spending I purchased a 2" Sabelt 4 point harness for the passenger side, I made up the plates on the weekend for the harness mounts and they are ready to be tacked on under the car.

I also finished welding in the front legs of the cage and filled the sills with the expander foam, that stuff is crazy :blush: .

I also mounted the surge tank and fuel pump assembly in the boot too.

So all in all I am getting there very slowly but this time of year is crazy busy, I was hoping to have the car all painted on the inside by Christmas but that will not be happening now, it will have to wait till next year.

Seatstrial.jpg

That is a wild looking cage. Does it go through to the front towers as well? couldn't see a pic showing that area.

Nar Noddy, i was thinking about it but i would have been such a pain at this stage cause i would have had to run no booster and change the master cyls, pedals etc. But i did get the dash bar made out of 44 mm tube so i can hang a pedal box off it later and run fwd supports at a later stage.

I have been meaning to Pm you about you car for a while now but have never got around to it, so expect a little PM soon bud.

Thanks for the kind words.

Ryan

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well after a frustrating day on the car i have made new mounts for the drivers seat twice as the first ones retained the std front mount, but the seat fouled on it when i slid the seat back for my height so i had to chop out the mounts and weld up some new ones directly to the floor. I just have to pick up some RPM side mount rails on monday to fit to the sides and brackets i have made then fingers crossed it will all be complete.

I fitted the OMP passenger foot rest and primed up the passenger seat mounts, and fitted the harness support plate so fingers crossed this side is complete.

So i cut and fitted the dash today also, so excited as it was starting to look like a car again until i found that the dash bar runs directly where the factory cluster is ment to be :P . So i need to sort out what i am going to do about gauges? Do i buy a shit load of cheapies? or do i spend up and buy a Stack dash or similar? Does anyone have any ideas on alternative dash?

Also i was inspecting the sump i had moddified and found that they had not cleaned up where they have cut the sump with the grinder so they is a shit load of metal in my sump that needs to be ground off and cleaned up. So the baffel plate needs to be cut out so i can clean up the grinder cuts woohoo, i am so so so pissed off. :geek:

So all in all i made one step forward and two steps back, happy new year. I will post up some pics and more info on Monday as i hope to kick a few goals then. For now it is beer O'Clock.

Same, O well, hopefully not too many more hurdles.

Got a reply about the IQ3 dash today, they don't have a interface with the Apexi ECU but hopefully we can work around that some how for not too much coin.

if I was doing this all again I would cough up for digital dash for sure.

individual gauges are expensive once you get them all and a pain to wire in.

digital dash does all that (still need senders of course), plus you can set it up to suit you, plus its simple, plus you get datalogging when you are ready for it

if I was doing this all again I would cough up for digital dash for sure.

individual gauges are expensive once you get them all and a pain to wire in.

digital dash does all that (still need senders of course), plus you can set it up to suit you, plus its simple, plus you get datalogging when you are ready for it

They are just so so expensive Duncan, and an expense i was not ready for. :banana:

If you can live without your AiM dash and Power Fc for a few weeks they will send them off to Italy to configure the data logger

What you talking about Roy?

I inquired about the AiM My Chron 4 and the MXL today hopefully should hear something back tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...