Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rip the fan heater and A/C core out, it's just unnecessary weight that you'll never use.

It's up to you whether you want to weld the fire wall up or just plug it. If you do need a hole down the track you generally will drill it where you want it rather then try and use an existing one.

  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

chuck em! we did and even on cold, wet tassie days its OK.

just need to keep the inside of the windscreen really clean, then apply a thin layer of fogex.

totally agree with jay on the firewall too.....cutting holes is easy, its only un-cutting that is a problem :(

Thanks Jay and Duncan, you have reassured me that i am on the right track.

I will post up some pics later tonight it there is much more progress. Today will be my only day off with the wife so i will see how much time i spend on it, Dam work :( .

No work done on Sunday, but I got a little done today. Wooohooo.

All the cabin and engine harnesses are out and labeled bar a few mystery objects hmmmmmm. Hopefully some one can let me know what they are.

Pic of were the back seat used to be.

day3back.jpg

Pic of were the dash used to be.

day3front.jpg

I have got a bloke coming over on Friday morning to remove all the windows and then I will remove what is left of the A/C and heater lines from the engine bay. Then I will remove all the sound deadener and give the car a good clean inside and out and get it ready to go to the smash repairers on the following Thursday for the week, then it will be off to get the cage sorted :D .

Gee wiz there is a lot of stuff that comes out of these cars when you get stuck in to them.

This is the first mystery box. It is located on the passenger side above the ECM. It has a clip holding the harness in, I was unsure if it is for the std security system and the latch was an anti theft thing??? So I did not pull the harness out of it. Any ideas?

unknownbox.jpg

There was another unit recessed in front of the passenger side door? and what is the unit that is upside down in the boot above the fuel pump? I will get pics of these later if you are still unsure what I am on about.

Hope I did not baffle you too much.

Cheers,

Ryan

Thats pretty much how I want it minus the door rubbers and the rubber mat behind the dash.

Take the doors off too if you have somewhere safe to store them.

That will all be out Inc the sound deadening and most of the welding on the chassis will be done.

The doors are already off and stored away, and all the windows will be out for you as I found a guy local that is confident and came recommended. So hopefully that will make Jay's and your life a little easier bud.

time to get the dry ice out ryan - looks good so far

can you take pics of the sunroof area? curious to see what supportis in that area

That is the plan for Friday after the windows come out. I will take some pics for you then and post them up for you Chris. If I un-tack the support would you want it mate?

That is the plan for Friday after the windows come out. I will take some pics for you then and post them up for you Chris. If I un-tack the support would you want it mate?

hm dont think i want a sun roof in the line, unless it comes as a package for a good price-

thinking of putting one in my work ute though so hence the curiosity.

Zebra is right about the hicas, though from memory you cant just remove it without hicas as the speed link runs through it for the power steering

If anyone has any info on what parts of the harness you can and can not remove without disturbing anything else that would be a huge help. Or if anyone could lead me in the right direction to find a body wire schematic not the engine that would be a massive help.

bring the loom with you ryan.

I can go through it all with you. the engine loom there is not a great deal you can do without. But as for the body loom the easiest way we have found is to strip the loom open and cut out everything that you dont need and re-tape the factory loom back together.

We only do full re-wires on cars that dont have a factory loom anymore. The last 2 GTR's we built have stripped out factory looms with everything shortened and simplified where possible.

It saves alot of headaches latter on down the track and makes the job so much neater and easier to fault find.

We throw away to factory fuse and relay boxes and just run basic relays and fuses in the same or similar location to origianal.

Its very easy to do and I dont mind running you through the basics.

Edited by Risking
bring the loom with you ryan.

I can go through it all with you. the engine loom there is not a great deal you can do without. But as for the body loom the easiest way we have found is to strip the loom open and cut out everything that you dont need and re-tape the factory loom back together.

We only do full re-wires on cars that dont have a factory loom anymore. The last 2 GTR's we built have stripped out factory looms with everything shortened and simplified where possible.

It saves alot of headaches latter on down the track and makes the job so much neater and easier to fault find.

We throw away to factory fuse and relay boxes and just run basic relays and fuses in the same or similar location to origianal.

Its very easy to do and I dont mind running you through the basics.

Kick ass cheers mate. :P

Well I got a little bit more done on Friday.

First off Instant windscreens came and we removed all the glass, front and rear screens and both quarter screens at the rear. What a shit job that was, the factory seals were hard as a rock and the silicon glue they used was crazy strong stuff. But after about an hour we had all of the glass out and cleaned up, but best of all there was no breakages wooooooohooooo.

Then I had to drop the car trailer off to get some new ramps made for it, after finding that one of the tyres valve stems was leaking and having to replace it I was under way again.

Then it was off to BOC to get an esky full of dry ice, and then it was a long stint in the car slowly getting rid of most of the sound deadening. All I have left is the two spots on the rear tyre wells which were a pain in the ass and at 10:30pm and after a 6 pack they were giving the shits, so I gave up and tided up what I had done.

So all I have to do is clean up the last remaining bits and remove the last few pipes etc out of the engine bay that will not be needed then next Friday it is off to get some welding done. :)

After removing all the door seals i found this little beauty under the RH door seal.

rhdoorsealrust.jpg

And this under the rear screen seal both these will be fixed while it is down at the smash repairers.

rearscreenrust.jpg

Most of the stuff out.

sounddeadout.jpg

The piles of deadener.

sounddeading.jpg

So hopefully by next weekend the car will be away getting all welded up, i can not wait.

did you really have to reply by quoting the WHOLE fiorst post Aza82??????

and what do you mean wtf?

This is going to be an awesome build!!!

anyhoo...

Ryan, how much did the sound deadning weigh mate?

coming along nicely!! let me know what weekends you have off coming up (when the car is back from cage build etc) and I'll try and come up and help (watch/drink beer) while motor goes back in!!

did you really have to reply by quoting the WHOLE fiorst post Aza82??????

and what do you mean wtf?

This is going to be an awesome build!!!

anyhoo...

Ryan, how much did the sound deadning weigh mate?

coming along nicely!! let me know what weekends you have off coming up (when the car is back from cage build etc) and I'll try and come up and help (watch/drink beer) while motor goes back in!!

Sounds like a plan bud.

I have not weighed it yet but i plan to on my next lot of days off so i will keep you posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So where is this message group so we can organise another meet? Keen to come along and catchup. Might eventually be in a skyline again next year, but the Mustang will have to do for now. Also need to get the WRX back on the road. Stupid f**king money pit that thing is.
    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
×
×
  • Create New...